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Routes in The Planet of the Apes

Damned Dirty Apes T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dr. Zaius T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I Feel Lonely T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Law Giver T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Man Can Be Domesticated T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nova's Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Simian Survival T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
To Hell With The Scarecrows T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 60 ft
FA: G. Kirchhoff, R. Sugget - August 2012
Page Views: 110 total · 2/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Aug 7, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

A personal favorite, this is a wild, thrilling, mixed line up an arete and steep face. Big and small edges, a thin crux, and thoughtful climbing make this a good, rewarding route. Turn around now? or say, "TO HELL WITH THE SCARECROWS!"

Follow a thin crack protected by cams. Move up and left towards holds on the arete, clip a bolt, pull the crux, and head up and right to a rest at a hairline crack and small ledge. Protect here with wired stoppers and continue up, passing one more bolt. Finish at a chain anchor.

Intimidating to look at, this is actually a great, well protected climb.

Location

This is the second line in The Planet area, its marked buy a striking and thin, parallel crack.

Protection

Micro cams and nuts, two bolts, and a chain anchor.

Photos

Roy Suggett
  5.11+
Roy Suggett  
  5.11+
Did this again. Same thoughts, but would suggest bringing a wide range of small nuts of many different shapes, manufactures, and sizes. A well fit nut is hard to find, but a gift from the Ape Gods. Jul 26, 2017
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11 PG13
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11 PG13
Intimidating is right. Stock up on micro cams as nothing bigger than a green C3 will fit (you may be able to sneak in a red C3 in one spot). You'd better be comfortable climbing above nests of micro nuts for the upper section.
The sequence using the left blunt arete eluded me completely, I ended up on the right side of the crack milking tiny edges and eventually came back toward the bolt. Stout either way. Sep 2, 2014
Roy Suggett
  5.11+
Roy Suggett  
  5.11+
VERY cruxy on EVERY move for the first 2/3rds of the route! Aug 8, 2012