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Routes in The Planet of the Apes

Damned Dirty Apes T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dr. Zaius T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I Feel Lonely T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Law Giver T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Man Can Be Domesticated T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nova's Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Simian Survival T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
To Hell With The Scarecrows T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: R.Suggett & Z. Warren
Page Views: 254 total, 5/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Dec 1, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This long route is one of the many multi-pitch routes to come in the Planet of the Apes area.

Pitch I (11c): The sport start is the crux but nothing much lets up until you reach the first anchor. Clipping bolts here with QDs except when you exit right out of the grey/white rock and on to the red rock shoulder under the anchors. Runners needed for this reachy/dino move. Straight up from here to the anchor.

Pitch II (11a): The trad second pitch is deep in a dihedral and requires some tricky stemming. Mostly BD number ones (4 would be good) gets you stemming out of the dihedral and on to a pillar. Three bolts more of face climbing gets you to chains (Same anchor as the end of Nova's Route). You can make a few more moves up here over doable but loose rock and top out only a few meters from the parking area to campsite B and the main down chute to the area. All-in-all, a fun team effort.

Location

This route is just left of Nova's Route and right at the north edge of the talus.

Protection

Eight QDs, four shoulder-length runners, and BD .3-1.0 and lots of them,and one BD #2 for the crack. Two 60 meter ropes to rap or top out over some loose rock.

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