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Man Can Be Domesticated
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in The Planet of the Apes
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Damned Dirty Apes T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dr. Zaius T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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I Feel Lonely T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Law Giver T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Man Can Be Domesticated T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Nova's Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Simian Survival T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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To Hell With The Scarecrows T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | R.Suggett & Z. Warren |
| Page Views: | 853 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Roy Suggett on Dec 1, 2013 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
This long route is one of the many multi-pitch routes to come in the Planet of the Apes area.
Pitch I (11c): The sport start is the crux but nothing much lets up until you reach the first anchor. Clipping bolts here with QDs except when you exit right out of the grey/white rock and on to the red rock shoulder under the anchors. Runners needed for this reachy/dino move. Straight up from here to the anchor.
Pitch II (11a): The trad second pitch is deep in a dihedral and requires some tricky stemming. Mostly BD number ones (4 would be good) gets you stemming out of the dihedral and on to a pillar. Three bolts more of face climbing gets you to chains (Same anchor as the end of Nova's Route). You can make a few more moves up here over doable but loose rock and top out only a few meters from the parking area to campsite B and the main down chute to the area. All-in-all, a fun team effort.
Pitch I (11c): The sport start is the crux but nothing much lets up until you reach the first anchor. Clipping bolts here with QDs except when you exit right out of the grey/white rock and on to the red rock shoulder under the anchors. Runners needed for this reachy/dino move. Straight up from here to the anchor.
Pitch II (11a): The trad second pitch is deep in a dihedral and requires some tricky stemming. Mostly BD number ones (4 would be good) gets you stemming out of the dihedral and on to a pillar. Three bolts more of face climbing gets you to chains (Same anchor as the end of Nova's Route). You can make a few more moves up here over doable but loose rock and top out only a few meters from the parking area to campsite B and the main down chute to the area. All-in-all, a fun team effort.
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