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Routes in The Planet of the Apes

Damned Dirty Apes T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dr. Zaius T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I Feel Lonely T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Law Giver T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Man Can Be Domesticated T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nova's Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Simian Survival T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
To Hell With The Scarecrows T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elevation: 10,400 ft
GPS: 37.758, -111.871 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,332 total, 36/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Jul 30, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

This is an extremely remote and secluded section of the band of cliffs forming The Jungle. This area is being defined by half of the crescent moon-shaped, northeast facing cove just past The Distant Drum area and Village Wall. The area begins just north of the easy down chute at the prominent point of the rocky ridge which pushes the trail down or east prior to cutting back north and into Planet of the Apes. It ends under a set of double roofs and some large sub-alpine firs which grow out of a bed of red clay and create a very nice shady spot for climbing. Rock quality is good though there will be some inevitable cleaning to be done. This area is significant to The Jungle in that these are some of the tallest cliffs in the Jungle.

Getting There

A moderately good trail leads from The Lower Jungle parking area north along the base of the band of cliffs. This trail passes The Lower Jungle, The Distant Drum,, and finally reaches the Planet of the Apes. It takes approximately 35 minutes (approximately 5 km.s) to walk from the parking lot to the start of this area. Another option is to come in from above by taking the northern mountaineer's trail (see Distant Drum Area beta topo and/or the topo below) down and thus saving approximately 20 to 30 minutes. There are other "downs" as well. Just before the east of the road cell tower and the wood pile, hike an old overgrown logging road east to the edge and look for a cairned chimney. No ropes needed and there are pieces of iron set inside to aid in your desent (5.4ish) but not for the faint of heart. You drop in at the end of the "Distant Drum Area" right on the trail (see topo below)! This puts you within five minutes of the first routes in the "Planet of the Apes Area." The first few routes are in the talus field. Follow the cairns to the trees where you will find a trail leading north along the base of the cliffs to more climbing at the end of the "Planet of the Apes Area". The second to last trail from above drops you out in the middle of this area. This trail can be located near a new campsite just north of the east side cell tower. The site and trail are well cairned and the trail leads east to the edge. Here you will need to use a tree to attach an old rope though just for a "hand" descent that drops you along a northeast running talus chute and on to the end section of the existing trail. This trail, as of 7/11/14 only extends north from here another Km. or so (recently extended to some of the most beautiful long walls in the Jungle), and a NEW area now known as "Pangaea" with super climbing potential! And, as of the end of the 2014 season there is yet another way down! Just south of the Dark Continent parking area and north of the a fore mentioned trail is a wood cairn denoting a small double track to another campsite. This is a sweet site and has a short trail to the edge where a zip line takes you to an attached tower. Here an anchor and two 60 meter ropes gets you to the end of Pangaea.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Planet of the Apes

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dr. Zaius
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dr. Zaius 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine
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