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Routes in The Planet of the Apes

Damned Dirty Apes T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dr. Zaius T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I Feel Lonely T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Law Giver T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Man Can Be Domesticated T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nova's Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Simian Survival T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
To Hell With The Scarecrows T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 90 ft
FA: G. Kirchhoff, R. Sugget - August 2012
Page Views: 1,334 total, 21/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Aug 7, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

"I have always known about man. From the evidence, I believe his wisdom must walk hand and hand with his idiocy." Dr. Zaius-

Dr. Zaius offers great crack climbing up a tough and tricky face. Well protected, this is an awesome, exciting route with plenty of options for gear. Worth its weight in gold, this line would have a line anywhere else. Unreal!!

Begin in a steep, hand size crack and work up passing a small roof. Continue on the face, following a crack to a ledge that gains a good rest. Climb the dihedral up to a giant roof. Pull and traverse the roof then finish left, up a steep varied face, split by a crack. A mighty fine line, lets hope your wisdom overrules your idiocy...

Location

At the entrance of The Planet of the Apes, this is the obvious, long crack with a giant roof.

Protection

A large assortment of medium to large cams, a single set of small cams and nuts, plenty of small and long runners. A few extra #3's, #4's, and #5's are recommended.
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10b
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10b
We stumbled on this gem after 4 days of getting rained on and rejected from just about every line. Sexiest hunk of rock ever. Perfect laser cut splitters up immaculate slabs covered in awesome lichen. HOT DAMN!

Edit: finally climbed the beast. Spectacular movement on very unique rock with a pretty high intimidation factor. The gear is great but everything rings a bit hollow, adding to the excitement. As mentioned by others, strategic back cleaning and long runners will save you from the rope drag monster. Gear-wise, single set from BD yellow C3 to #5 with doubles in #3 and #4 worked great. Extra #3, #4 and #5 would save you some cam bumping. Dec 21, 2012
BSU_Zac
  5.10c
BSU_Zac  
  5.10c
Wow what a great route! This would be a must-do at any crag. The bottom section is exciting on it's own but then it's combined with a large roof and relatively long OW. The roof may not look big or committing from the ground but just wait until you are underneath it. Keep your head calm and plan your placements to both reduce rope drag and protect your second from a major swing. After you are done with the roof, you still have a great OW to navigate. Big props to Greg for a great FA! Nov 25, 2012
Roy Suggett
  5.10c/d
Roy Suggett  
  5.10c/d
This was a very, very impressive FA by G.K. and the large loose chalk stone made the climbing even more exciting! Now that the route has been cleaned, I believe this is one of the best routes in the Jungle. Get your head together for the roof! Aug 8, 2012