Type: Trad, Sport, Aid, 1050 ft, 12 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Martin Scheel +Gregory Benisowitsch, 1980
Page Views: 1,137 total · 15/month
Shared By: Dan Flynn on Jul 25, 2012
Admins: Dan Flynn, Mark P.

You & This Route


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Description

A megaclassic of central Switzerland. Notoriously hard for the grade, with a challenging approach of traverses and with unobvious route finding at the start. First repeated only after two years, by Wolfgang G├╝llich.

Rebolted in 2004-05, with additional bolts added beyond what the first ascentionists used. M. Scheel declared that he had a 'copyright' to his work of art, and so the original character was restored by removing 28 bolts. The spooky alpine feeling is back.. The first ascent party went all trad and with only hand-drilled bolts.

Nice trip report and re-drawn topo by Marcel Dettling here.
mdettling.blogspot.ch/2011/…

P1 6a
P2 6c++
P3 6a
P4 6b
P5 6a
P6 5c+
P7 6c+ A0 (pendulum)
P8 6a
P9 6b
P10 6a+
P11 6b
P12 5a

Tricky abseiling, take a few copies of the topo to make sure you know where to go!

Location

Middle of the Grosser Turm.

Protection

A few bolts, but bring a full rack up to BD 3. Small cams especially useful.

Photos

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