Type: Trad, Sport, 360 ft (109 m), 4 pitches
GPS: 47.1017, 8.9562
FA: M. Dettling 2011
Page Views: 699 total · 4/month
Shared By: Dan Flynn on Jun 26, 2012
Admins: Mark P., James H, Dan Flynn
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Description Suggest change

A hugely varied and enjoyable 4-pitch climb on the "schiberg" part of Bockmattli, directly behind the SAC hut.

This was a good choice for us early season, when some of the longer routes were wet and shedding loose rock.

Start on the last set of bolts up the gully.

1. 6b
2. 6a+ - Finish on a ledge, next to an anchor for the classic Andromeda 6b. Stay right for the next pitch!
3. 6c
4. 6c+/7a - The jewel of the climb. Crux slab section is bookended by crimpy technical climbing at the beginning and juggy overhanging moves at the top. Wicked fun.

Topo Marcel Dettling's blog

Location Suggest change

Schiberg, the face directly uphill from the SAC hut.

Protection Suggest change

Very well bolted, but possible to get supplemental gear in the good-quality rock here.

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