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Routes in Bockmattli

Dreimal kurz gelacht 6c T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jenelana 7a T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Namenslose Kante 5a T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Supertramp 6c+ T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0
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Type: Trad, Sport, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Rolf Kälin, Michi Gysin 1986
Page Views: 440 total · 5/month
Shared By: Dan Flynn on Jul 10, 2011
Admins: Dan Flynn

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Description

P1 6b+ - A rough warmup. Crux after 3rd bolt, traversing right. Then some steep moves over a bulge. 40 m.

P2 6b - Run out and steep with some tricky moves. Good fun! 30 m.

P3 6c - Clip the 1st bolt, then go down and traverse low. Spectactular climbing on the best rock on the route, with intricate moves. Moves right to the arete towards the top. #2 cam useful here. Payback for the good climbing: crappy hanging belay at the end. 30 m.

P4 6a - A monster pitch, and not a gimme for the rating. With 60m ropes, you can pass a 2-bolt rap station, keep going to belay station in the alcove (with a metal bucket). 50 m.

P5 6a+ - Traverse left around the corner, and head up. 30m.

P6 5c - Icing on the cake. Stemming corner, easily protectable with medium and large cams. Maybe one bolt on the pitch. 30m.

5 rappels with 60 m ropes, tricky at the end: either rap down to the path at the bottom (best with daylight and good conditions to find the rap station) or downclimb the loose scramble approach.

Location

Western edge of the north face of Bockmattli. The path from the hut along the base of the cliff will join a barbed wire fence. Hop over at a large downed tree and scamble up the loose, muddy hill. At the rock, head left for ~100m of easy but loose 5th class, with several bolts. We simulclimbed on 30m of rope.

Protection

Bolts and belays were replaced in 2004, but the original character was kept: bolts for most of the hard climbing, but bring a small rack. BD 2 to Metolius 00 and nuts all useful. 16 draws / slings.

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