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Routes in Aladdin's Buttress

Aladdin's Couloir WI1 M1 Mod. Snow
Aladdin's Mirror Steep Snow
Goat Track Gully T WI3 Steep Snow
Magic Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 80 total · 1/month
Shared By: marsh on Jul 11, 2012
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

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Description

P1: Steep snow. Trend right, aiming for the right trending gully.
P2: Continue moving right over steeper snow and enter the gully.
P3: (Crux) Move directly up the headwall over good ice. Watch the rock overhang on the right. (easier with more snow pack)
P4: Take the ridge via the mixed snow and ice.

Location

The obvious right treading gully. The red X on the picture is bottom of pitch 2.

Protection

No fixed gear (UK style of course)
P3 can take screws
Bring a winter rack, deadman, and screws if you want to protect yourself for the whole climb.

Photos

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