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Routes in Aladdin's Buttress

Aladdin's Couloir WI1 M1 Mod. Snow
Aladdin's Mirror Steep Snow
Goat Track Gully T WI3 Steep Snow
Magic Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 500 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 615 total · 5/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Feb 5, 2009
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

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Description [Suggest Change]

Aladdin's Couloir is a classic dog-legging snow gully that wraps around the steep left hand side of Aladdin's Buttress and passes behind the rocky spire of Aladdin's Seat en route to the plateau above. A great first winter route or easy descent; commonly soloed. The steepest section comes right in the dogleg, but the grade is fairly consistent throughout. A cornice often forms at the top once the route joins with Aladdin's Mirror, but this can often be avoided on the right. Ice sometimes forms in the steep section making for a few meters of WI1.

Be sure to jog right onto the narrow, exposed ridge below Aladdin's Seat. Fantastic views and easy belay setups mean this is not to be missed. Brief difficulties will bring the climber up to the left of the pinnacle and back into the gully proper. Do not miss this variation!

Location [Suggest Change]

Very obvious steep gully bounding the left of Aladdin's Buttress. Approach via a steep scree slope, and descend left into Coire Cas or right down the Goat Track.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Nut set and slings. There are good nut belays at the start of the couloir and near the pinnacle, an in situ sling at the 'crux' corner, and several other horn belays. Bucket seats would suffice in good snow, or just solo it.

Photos

Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
A pleasant warm up and better climbing that the easier Jacobs Ladder.

In the spring when conditions are good this provides a good steep ski descent for those confident in their abilities. Feb 7, 2009

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