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Routes in Rock Springs Buttress

"Bacon Strip" T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Air Raid T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Albatross Roof T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Baby Cham Brings The Heat ! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Man on Campus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Big Wally T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blimpie T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bolt it G T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Box Car Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Box Car Boulder V6-7 7A+
Chant Down the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clowns and Jokers T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Coombs Crossover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crucify the Dread S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Direct Start to Exum Arete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Do It For Doug S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exum Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giver' for Givens T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go, For Gary ! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Going Ghandi S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gothic Serpent T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grand Central S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gray Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hidden Gold T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobo Rat Race S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ice Climb, The T WI5-6 M7
Ire' Tower T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Knockin' on the Sky T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Live to Ski S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Monkey Flower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mule Skinner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Munger Crack and Friends Pitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Logo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Mountaineer's Root T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Orange Member S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Other Ice Climb, The T WI4 M5
Piton Country T M5+
Pork Slab S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ptarmigan Tower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainbow Country S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rasberry Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Red Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M7
Red, Gold and Green S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Lounge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Super Power S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Super Trad T M6+ R
This climb from the Tram (is recommended for climbers with expert abilities only.) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trash Culture S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triple Roofs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waste Products S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Whistle Pigs S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wish You Were Here S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Y - Not Wall (Amada's Route) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zion Stormtrooper S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
d S 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Type: Sport, Alpine, 80 ft
FA: Toby Stegman, Jakub Galczynski, Wes Gooch & Toby Grohne - June 2012
Page Views: 688 total, 10/month
Shared By: Toby on Jun 24, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Fun climbing with great quartz crystals towards the top. Distinct crux about midway, then easing off towards the top. The mid section climbs just right of the bolt line as to keep the fall clean. The rock character is slightly different than the upper buttress making for a nice change of pace. Good route to hit on the walk out. We did a bunch of cleaning on this one and will improve with some traffic. Most likely more routes will be done in this area making it more of a destination.

Location

Lowest rock at the buttress. Skiers right side at the bottom of the Y - Not couloir. When hiking up the trail after the yurt, and the flats beyond it, the trail starts to gradually climb near the creek. Once you cross from the north to south side of the creek keep an eye out for a small cairn not to far up trail. From the small clearing with the cairn you will be able to see the cliff. Cross back over the creek and follow faint game trails to the cliff. See beta photo.

Protection

bolts

Photos

Toby
Jackson, WY
 
Toby   Jackson, WY
 
There is a 5.8 (crux at bolts 1 - 2) warm up around the corner to the right of this climb (The Duke's White Heel - named after a ski binding found near the top of the route). It was put in last winter/spring. Be careful it is still pretty fresh and a wee bit loose. You can set up a TR on Amada's Route from the anchor of TDWH. You can walk to the top and access this anchor too! The carabiners on the anchor will some day become chains. please leave them there.

Wear a helmet and enjoy. Dec 6, 2013