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Routes in Rock Springs Buttress Temp

"Bacon Strip" T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Air Raid T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Albatross Roof T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Baby Cham Brings The Heat ! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Man on Campus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Big Wally T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bolt it G T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Chant Down the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clowns and Jokers T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crucify the Dread S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Direct Start to Exum Arete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Do It For Doug S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Exum Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giver' for Givens T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go, For Gary ! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gothic Serpent T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grand Central S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gray Wall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hidden Gold T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ice Climb, The T WI5-6 M7
Ire' Tower T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Knockin' on the Sky T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Live to Ski S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mule Skinner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Munger Crack and Friends Pitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Mountaineer's Root T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Other Ice Climb, The T WI4 M5
Piton Country T M5+
Pork Slab S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ptarmigan Tower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainbow Country S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rasberry Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Red Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M7
Red, Gold and Green S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
School Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sky Lounge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Super Trad T M6+ R
This climb from the Tram (is recommended for climbers with expert abilities only.) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Whistle Pigs S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wish You Were Here S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Y - Not Wall (Amada's Route) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: First pitch unknown, Nate Brown and Sam Macke second pitch
Page Views: 596 total · 14/month
Shared By: Nate Brown on Jan 16, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

First pitch is 30 meters of seasonally different but dependable ice. Overhanging hard non-bolted M7 or M8 if not fully formed(I'm a bad judge of m-ratings FYI). Some years the chimney forms a burly 70' of difficult ice climbing. Tobey Grohne sent the pitch several years ago, Macke threw down a proud onsight the day we did the second pitch. Hard to know the early history of this dependable tram accessed drip...

Second pitch is 30 more meters of difficult rock climbing with some loose rock. Probably M6+?. It would rate 5.10 in rock shoes. A hand crack roof with slabby feet marks the crux. This pitch was also crampon-clad onsighted on its (pitch 2) FA.

Location

Route is on the eastern-most large formation of the buttress about 20' east of "Knocking on the Sky"

Route can be rapped with one 60 meter cord. Beware the top rap barely reaches the anchor atop the ice.

Protection

Pins through 4 Camalot with plenty ice screws will do the job. 2 stainless steel bolts and hangers now live at the 30 meter mark at the top of the ice. 2 more ss bolts live 30 meters higher at the end of the technical terrain. The pro on p1 is kinda scarce through the crux and very trad making this lead feel a little scary compared to a bolted M8.

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