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Routes in (c) East Sector

"Bacon Strip" T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Albatross Roof T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Birthday Suit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ice Climb, The T WI5-6 M7
Ire' Tower T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Knockin' on the Sky T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Live to Ski S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mule Skinner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Other Ice Climb, The T WI4 M5
Pork Slab S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rasberry Arete S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Swordfish Lipstick S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Whistle Pigs S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Y - Not Wall (Amada's Route) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 400 total · 9/month
Shared By: Nate Brown on Feb 3, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Description

Another route that must have been climbed several times over the years. It would make a lousy summer rock climb. However, when filled with water ice, the gully makes for an awesome winter climb.

Start by climbing under the Swordfish Lipstick chockstone. 25 meters of steep snow and low angle water ice is followed by 25 more meters of superb steep mixed climbing on good rock and water ice. Pitch 2: easy climbing with a stout mixed crux of about twenty feet or so.

Location

Climb the gully that marks the start of Swordfish Lipstick. About eighty feet west from "The Ice Climb"

Protection

Ice screws, medium sized rack, some pins (the hatchety type seemed the best)

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