Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Lee Terveen
Page Views: 57 total · 1/month
Shared By: BBQ on Jun 17, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

Something tells me I shouldn't try to be funny...but here it goes. Ahem! The 5.11d's really are the bastard children of the sport climbing world. Not hard enough to be 12's, yet too hard for most intermediate climbers, they often sit alone, untouched and unloved season after season.

Please do not walk into this crag without giving this climb a reason to live. Some of you might be surprised, the route is not your typical Mohican varity climb and has way fun, hard moves that require big, thought provoking movement. Some of you might leave a bail beaner and never get on it again since it is a miserable, little bitch.

Sack up, people! Don't be the douchebag who left this climb in a WHAAAAMBULANCE! Don't be the dink who bailed off because they wanted a WHAAAMBURGER with some FRENCH CRIES!

Work this crazy thang! Get past the tricky slab at the start to a weird horizontal crack system to a face that underclings, sidepulls and steps up with huge yet precise footwork into, you guessed it, a depression in the rock face that requires serious strength along with some creative hands and feet to get out of.

Quit your whining! Get back on your meds and get back on this climb until you figure it out.

Location

Middle of wall and to the right of Nut Hut.

Protection

8 quickdraws. Open shunt anchors.

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