Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: Mark Klemens (Aug '71)
Page Views: 2,272 total · 22/month
Shared By: Bryan G on May 30, 2012
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Cream is a great offwidth pitch that ranks among the Valley's most classic splitters. Imagine Chingando, but 20 degrees steeper. It's also probably among the easiest of the 5.11 wide cracks if you are looking to break into the grade.

This will be the first obvious climb you come to as you traverse the base of the cliff from the "Eastern Square Cleft" approach gully. It is on the steep right-hand face of a large open book. Blocky 5th class climbing leads to a stance at the bottom of the splitter. The crux comes at you pretty quick on a section that is gently overhanging. Higher up you will pass a small roof and the angle lessens. Conserve your gear because the climb is longer than it looks. I found the route fairly secure but burly and sustained the whole way, with almost no climbing easier than 5.9. Also consider bringing extra webbing for the anchor. The bolts are new but the webbing connecting the rap rings could use replacing. There's a chance a 70m rope might get you down, but I'm not sure.

Protection

I brought three #4 Camalots, two #5 Camalots, and two #6 Camalots and placed all of it, plus a couple hand sized pieces at the start.

Photos