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Routes in Ay. Cream
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Cream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Energy Crisis T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jam Session T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| GPS: | 37.71478, -119.70107 |
| FA: | Mark Klemens and Jim Bridwell (1971) |
| Page Views: | 1,111 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on May 30, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The guidebook calls this the "junior version of Cream". While it's definitely shorter, I thought it was just as burly. Just past Cream is another large corner system with a splitter up the face to the right of this. The climb starts with hand jams and widens to squeeze chimney. The crux is a 4.5" in section below the ledge in the middle. I'm pretty sure it's best done as a lieback. Above the ledge the crack is wider and much more difficult to protect with conventional gear. There are a couple places for a super tipped-out #6 Camalot in constrictions, but you will need big bros or valley giants to adequately protect the upper 40' of the climb. Larger people will feel especially exposed at an "S-curve" high on the route. The anchor is a couple rusty 3/8" bolts.
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