Type: Trad, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: Mark Klemens and Jim Bridwell (1971)
Page Views: 782 total · 6/month
Shared By: Bryan G on May 30, 2012
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski

You & This Route

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The guidebook calls this the "junior version of Cream". While it's definitely shorter, I thought it was just as burly. Just past Cream is another large corner system with a splitter up the face to the right of this. The climb starts with hand jams and widens to squeeze chimney. The crux is a 4.5" in section below the ledge in the middle. I'm pretty sure it's best done as a lieback. Above the ledge the crack is wider and much more difficult to protect with conventional gear. There are a couple places for a super tipped-out #6 Camalot in constrictions, but you will need big bros or valley giants to adequately protect the upper 40' of the climb. Larger people will feel especially exposed at an "S-curve" high on the route. The anchor is a couple rusty 3/8" bolts.


Pro to 6+ inches.