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Routes in The Mortuary

Coroner, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crypt, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirt Nap T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hatchet Job T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Plant Food T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Under the Knife T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: P. Bodmar and B. Gillett, 2007
Page Views: 266 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 23, 2012 with updates from JFM
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Suggest Change]

This is a fairly good route with good rock. What you determine to be the crux depends upon your strengths and the protection you bring. If you are a face climber and have no wide gear, the lower section will be mentally challenging. Otherwise, the face above may be more to-do, particularly if traversing to the anchors on the right for Cryonics, a looser and dirty finish that might be called for if you want to set a TR on the 12c.

Location [Suggest Change]

This route lies at the left end of the crag and is back in a slot, inset, or small "box canyon" if you will. The route starts up and obvious 4-7" crack/flake that forms a right-facing corner in the back of the short corridor. Climb up that and surmount the slightly detached tower that forms it, then climb up into the corner above, stepping left to one set of anchors, or weaving to the right to another, which lie out of sight over a bulge, but will appear if sought out.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A set of cams from small to VERY large and a few long runners.

Per JFM: you can sew up the bottom section with at least one each #5 Wild Country and #6 Black Diamond.

Photos

Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
 
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
 
One #4.5 Camalot seemed to be enough for the wide section. Aug 6, 2017

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