Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: P. Bodmar and B. Gillett, 2007
Page Views: 274 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 23, 2012 with updates from JFM
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a fairly good route with good rock. What you determine to be the crux depends upon your strengths and the protection you bring. If you are a face climber and have no wide gear, the lower section will be mentally challenging. Otherwise, the face above may be more to-do, particularly if traversing to the anchors on the right for Cryonics, a looser and dirty finish that might be called for if you want to set a TR on the 12c.

Location

This route lies at the left end of the crag and is back in a slot, inset, or small "box canyon" if you will. The route starts up and obvious 4-7" crack/flake that forms a right-facing corner in the back of the short corridor. Climb up that and surmount the slightly detached tower that forms it, then climb up into the corner above, stepping left to one set of anchors, or weaving to the right to another, which lie out of sight over a bulge, but will appear if sought out.

Protection

A set of cams from small to VERY large and a few long runners.

Per JFM: you can sew up the bottom section with at least one each #5 Wild Country and #6 Black Diamond.

Photos

Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
 
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
 
One #4.5 Camalot seemed to be enough for the wide section. Aug 6, 2017