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Routes in The Mortuary

Coroner, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crypt, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirt Nap T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hatchet Job T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Plant Food T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Under the Knife T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: B. Gillett, P. Bodmar, P. Foster, 2007.
Page Views: 182 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 23, 2012
Admins: Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Leo Paik, John McNamee

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Description [Edit]

This is a good line with a little of everything, including hidden holds. The diverse nature of the climbing may make a distinct crux either hard to identify or a matter of some debate between parties. Shorter climbers may also find bolt-clipping somewhat challenging in a spot or two.

Climb up a moderate move and clip the first bolt just off of the ledge, and get immediately into the thick (and thin) of things with the first crux, which consists of getting to and clipping the second bolt. Gillett mentions in his book being sure to clip from the right hold, which I only found after doing the crux, and clipping bolt #2 from above, despite him reminding me right there. The "good hold" is hidden, but missing it is not tragic if you keep a cool head.

Continue up an arete and then left onto a face below a bulging slot. Place gear and climb out the bulging slot to a stem (go in too deep and it gets harder, not easier) and a bolt on the left. Clip that bolt and go left around the blunt arete and up that to the top of the rock to reach a 2 bolt anchor with chain.

Location [Edit]

This route lies perhaps 10 meters to the right of the slot that holds 'The Crypt' and is the left of the first two obvious bolted routes in the shallow, left-facing corners.

Protection [Edit]

Several QDs for bolts and the bolt and chain anchors, a light rack of nuts and cams, and a few longer slings, as this route wanders a bit.

Photos

Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
  5.11b
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
  5.11b
The hidden hold is level and on the other side of a incipient crack or fold that is shoulder height, you'll be reaching around the corner for it.

When under the OH, do not go to the back and up through a slot, instead do a 180 turn. I went thru the slot in the back and had mega rope drag. Aug 6, 2017

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