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Routes in New Buck

Autopilot T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Buck Hunter S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Devil Wears Prana T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fawn Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High-Rise Tightie Whities S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
J. D. Memorial Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Low-Rise Thong T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pick Pocket T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Team Rocksport T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ten Point Buck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thin Soles T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Train Wreck T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tuesday Layback T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wednesday Wisecrack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcome Matt S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 545 total, 8/month
Shared By: Benjaminadk on May 21, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Climb a small corner to a stance beneath an right rising finger crack. Make a couple strenous and painful moves to pull a small overhang and gain the crack (crux). Continue up the crack to friction climbing protected with bolts to fixed anchors.

Location

Five feet up and right of Ten Point Buck at a small right arching, right facing corner topped with a crack in a slight overhang.

Protection

Protect the finger crack with a couple pieces and continue on clipping bolts.

Photos

J. Serpico
Saratoga County, NY
  5.7+ PG13
J. Serpico   Saratoga County, NY
  5.7+ PG13
I haven't led it, but even after top roping it, it's not a 5.7 on that cliff I intend to lead anytime soon. The crux is low and ground fall is a definite factor on lead. The friction under the roof is kind of slippery compared to all the other routes. Is it 5.7+, well compared to the route left of it, which is 5.6 (and I led onsight), it's significantly harder. Maybe if the friction was better. I enjoyed the route but it's really just V0 boulder problem and some low fifth class slab. Oct 28, 2014
Tom Sherman
Bristol, RI
Tom Sherman   Bristol, RI
My first mock trad lead. As stated very 'G'. Took stoppers, hexes, tricams of various sizes. I sewed it up and including bolts had 9 pieces in. While there is 1-2ish hard moves it did not feel very challenging. 5.7+ seems appropriate although I am 6'-2" which may contribute to my opinion. Gaining the roof was not the crux, but the move after the roof/ trying to make a placement at this point. Low rating because if you can make the lower moves/crux the upper climbing will be very very easy. Jun 30, 2014
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
 
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
 
it is also a little bit harder than it looks. but is very G. Jun 13, 2013
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.8-
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.8-
Looks better than it is.

**Update** On a return visit, I think this might be pushing 5.8 for the one or two crux moves through the roof. Highly protectible, although I've only top roped it after someone led the easier 5.6 to the left... May 28, 2012