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Routes in New Buck

Autopilot T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Buck Hunter S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Devil Wears Prana T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fawn Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High-Rise Tightie Whities S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
J. D. Memorial Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Low-Rise Thong T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pick Pocket T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Team Rocksport T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ten Point Buck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thin Soles T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Train Wreck T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tuesday Layback T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wednesday Wisecrack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcome Matt S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 1,450 ft
GPS: 43.499, -73.6 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Jaysen Henderson on Jul 20, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer
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Description

This cliff is great for having many moderates close together, with a few short lines that pack a punch. A great season opener for the volume of climbing you can get in within a day. Although the cliff is a mere 60 feet tall, the rock quality is good and climbing fun. This area is mostly concealed by the tree line and can get buggy.

Getting There

approach 40 mins moderate. From NY 149 turn left onto buttermilk falls road and drive 6.4 miles to a small dirt pullof with a trail that once entered has a sign in box for lower hogtown trailhead. Stay left at the fork 5 mins in, follow blue markers to beaver pond (25mins) hike until you hit a cairn at 30 mins and take the herd path off right to the marsh to which you will be able to see the cliff through the trees.40 mins

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at New Buck

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
There's a lot of climbing here and it can easily fill up a day. Check in the ADK Rock climbing guide and on the adirondackrock.com website for new routes. I went this past weekend and usually go in the Spring, going in the late summer is MUCH better in terms of bugs and mud. Unfortunately our group did get attacked by yellow jackets as we were approaching 100 yards from the cliff. The 5.6 routes are good for the grade. Sep 9, 2013

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