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Routes in New Buck

Autopilot T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Buck Hunter S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Devil Wears Prana T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fawn Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High-Rise Tightie Whities S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
J. D. Memorial Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Low-Rise Thong T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pick Pocket T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Team Rocksport T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ten Point Buck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thin Soles T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Train Wreck T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tuesday Layback T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wednesday Wisecrack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcome Matt S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,005 total, 15/month
Shared By: Benjaminadk on May 21, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Gain the finger crack via small holds. Go to top of crack, step right to first bolt. Friction up through pockets, horizontals and large crystals clipping a few more bolts on the way to fixed anchors. Longest route on the cliff and a fun climb.

Location

At the right end of the cliff, on a less than verical face with an obvious vertical finger crack beginning ten feet up. Just left of the small right arching, right facing corner that begins Fawn Crack.

Protection

Protect the thin crack down low with gear and clip bolts the rest of the way

Photos

NYClimber
New York
NYClimber   New York
Did this climb in June 2013. This is a nice route, well protected and fun. The rock here is beautiful - lots of nice little nubbins, waves, etc. for footholds and handholds. Just a nice fun climb.

This entire crag is really a nice place to climb. Very quiet there - nice clean rock for most all of the climbs. A few spots/climbs were wet - so we just avoided those and did others. Good bolts and bolted rap anchors as well.

Note: Is a little wet and muddy on the hike in which is a easy hike per se - but you def want at least ankle high hiking boots or muck boots - esp if after we have had a lot of rainfall. This place tends to get every wet and 'swampy' on the approach esp if after a lot of rain as we have had recently. Much of the crag is shaded as well, until at least 3-4 PM, so it's cool and shady there. Def bring bug repellant as well!

The hike is an actual 40 min hike in and out, but a easy hike and not too strenuous. As in many areas these days I highly recommend DEET repellant for bugs as well as ticks. We did not see any ticks per se - but the risk of them is everywhere now. Jun 21, 2013