Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Techweeny Buttress

Completely Clueless T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crackula T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crankenstein S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 80 ft
FA: Jeff Ash, Adam Read, Matt Samet
Page Views: 339 total, 5/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Apr 29, 2012
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The middle of the 3 bolted lines on Techweenie Buttress, Completely Clueless consists of thin face climbing to a very thin crux at bolt 4. It's 30' from the last bolt to the anchor; a finger-size cam in a vertical slot would help here, a 2nd piece just before the anchor could also be placed. This was probably one of the first sport climbs in the Sandias (although bringing gear for the top is advised).

Location

The middle of the 3 bolted lines on the smooth buttress portion of Techweenie Buttress, right of the 5.8 Crackula.

Protection

4 bolts plus 1 or 2 finger size cams, to a 2-bolt anchor

Photos

- No Photos -
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
  5.12c
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
  5.12c
I doubt this thing gets climbed much. This feels like the hardest line of the three by far. At least Bojin to the left has usable holds through the difficult climbing and feels reasonable for its given grade. There was some suspect glue at one point where it looked like a hold might have been.

Fun 5.11 climbing leads to a stance on a sloping angled foot ledge. From here it is 20 feet of desperate, sequential slab climbing that is probably .12d in reality. It took me multiple tries to work out a sequence that weaved out right then back left. Fortunately I was on top rope (mini traxion) so the 30 foot runnout to the anchors on 5.10/11 terrain wasn't an issue. There is a decent piece available, but it is down and left from the "stance" to place it and you are probably quaking in your boots at this point. Long fingernails and new shoes help on this one.

The second pitch to all these climbs feels about .11a/b heading up on really fun steep climbing with intermittent gear and pins. Jul 6, 2015