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Routes in Techweeny Buttress

Completely Clueless T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crackula T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crankenstein S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Leonard, David Dunlap, 1986
Page Views: 3,477 total · 24/month
Shared By: Chuck McQuade on Jan 1, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closure for some areas in the Sandias Details

Description

Look for the obvious left facing corner, just north of the clean face.

P1: (5.8) Climbs intermittent cracks to a dihedral, followed by a slight bulge. Continue on easy ground and over a few ledges. Belay at a large ledge below a wide crack. (Large gear needed for the belay, #4 Camelot comes in handy, but not necessary)

P2: (5.8) Climb up the wide crack, til its possible to step right onto the face. Continue up and right to the corner of a small roof. Use a short crack to pull around the roof and continue up through intermittent cracks and face to the top of the formation.

Location

Route starts in a obvious dihedral at the left end of Techweeny Buttress

Protection

Small rack to a #4 Camalot (for P1 belay).
Ryan Smyth
Albuquerque, NM
 
Ryan Smyth   Albuquerque, NM
 
I think we may have got off route on the 2nd pitch on this climb, we worked left up easy ground to a dihedral with a pretty hard move just below a piton and continued up easier gound to the top. The hard move in the dihedral can catch you off guard. Great climb though, can't wait to climb the actual route. Apr 30, 2008
mattb19
  5.8
mattb19  
  5.8
Are the hangers on the top of the feature the top of the route? Can you rap it? After doing Yucca Flower Tower we went over and thought we would just see if we could rap in and went off the hangers at the top. We ended up in some death gully with lots of lose rock. We saw a sling in the gully as well that appeared that someone else tried to rap there. We got our ropes stuck so we never got to see if that was the way to go. Jul 13, 2008
Chuck McQuade
Golden, CO
  5.8
Chuck McQuade   Golden, CO
  5.8
MattB; it sounds like you could of been somewhere by Big-T...were you near/above Bush Shark by chance? Crackula is best approached by hiking down echo canyon from the La-Luz junction for approx 5 minutes...to the base of the formation. Jul 19, 2008
mattb19
  5.8
mattb19  
  5.8
Thanks Chuck and Tamara you are correct. Jul 22, 2008
Nick Manke
Edgewood, NM
 
Nick Manke   Edgewood, NM
 
As Ryan said we got a little off route, but the correct route is awesome. The second pitch has some good exposure so find a solid hold and lean out for a great view. Good pro throughout the entire climb but watch out for little $&*@ heads that like to kick rocks off the edge of the top... Sep 17, 2008
Amy Ballard
  5.8
Amy Ballard  
  5.8
I do the second pitch by stepping to the right just above the belay, working up the easy ledges about 20 ft., then stepping left across a crack to easy ground leading to the top.
If you could only stack Crackula's first pitch with Estrellita and the second pitch of Excitable Boys into one single climb... Aug 14, 2009
Orlando
 
Orlando  
 
Definitely go right on P2 and stay right all the way through the roof crux, as shown in C&T's photos.
Really nice. It's been awhile since I've been on Estrellita, but I'll go so far as to make the blasphemous comment that this route may be better overall...let the stoning begin. Sep 29, 2009
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
  5.8
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
  5.8
Maybe P2 can be thought of as the Gold-i-Locks pitch. If one climbed P1 and found that it ...

a) ... wasn't spicy enough, trend up and left to climb the obvious dihedral;
b) ... was just right, go ~straight up until can move right onto the face, go up, and then escape the roof on the right;
c) ... was a little too spicey, climb like 'b' except escape the roof on the left.

Disclaimer: I have neither done 'a' nor is my advice always well thought out. ;-) Sep 22, 2013
Lee H
Albuqueruqe,NM
 
Lee H   Albuqueruqe,NM
 
The move straight up from the belay (into that offwidth) and then right to get on to the face seemed much harder than anything on Miss Piggy, or Second Coming (the 5.8 var). I must have been doing it weird. The pro was alright, but it was all small pro (a few nuts and red master in a horizontal) until you can stick a couple bigger cams (c4 #2 and maybe a #1) after you get past the roof. Fun climb though. Jun 29, 2014
The left hand exit, which as I recall has a pin (or two?) up there somewhere, is probably not for most folks. My partner reminds me it had some serious run out on it. I think things were moist the day we first did that exit so it had the normal Sandia wet lichen, etc... to really spice things up. Love the summer rains but when the Sandias sock in for a few days, watch the slipperies and beware the loose stuff that normally is not loose.

Have always done the RH exit since. Up the flare for a couple of moves to the roof, put in good gear, pull and step right, somewhat balancy, very fun, great exposure. Pics show the 2nd pitch quite well. Doesn't look like that from the belay though. Aug 6, 2014
Rika J.
Colorado
 
Rika J.   Colorado
 
I'll agree with the blasphemous comment above that this route is one of the best at the grade in the Sandias, and maybe even better than Estrellita. Definitely take the #4 though. Sep 11, 2017

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