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Routes in Techweeny Buttress

Completely Clueless T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crackula T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crankenstein S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, Alpine, 80 ft
FA: Paul Horak, Mark Leonard, 1986
Page Views: 732 total, 11/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Apr 29, 2012
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Awesome thin face climbing up the right side of Techweenie Buttress. At times, look around the right side to find hidden holds on the corner. The crux comes around bolt 5 and was, for me, trusting an improbable highstep. At the top, step left to the 2-bolt anchor above Completely Clueless. This climb was probably bolted on lead, but climbs like a sport climb now (no gear, just safely-spaced bolts).

The old Hill Sandia guide shows an obscure 2nd pitch to this route, at 5.10c (on the topo) or 5.11 (in the route description), and is reportedly really fun steep climbing with intermittent gear and pins. I didn't climb it, but to do it, step left to the highest bolt on Bojin and go up a seam passing some fixed pins and then angle to the right. Bring gear if you're doing p2. Judging from the color of the bail biner I collected on p1 (purple on one side, gray on the sunny side), p1 doesn't see much action either.

Location

Rightmost of the 3 sport climbs on the the smooth face of Techweenie Buttress, right of Crackula

Protection

6 or 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The last (7th) bolt is useful as a directional for a follower, but is so close to the anchor that it isn't helpful on lead. 3 of the bolts are 1/4".

Quickdraws only for p1. Bring gear if continuing up p2.

Photos

David Baltz
Albuquerque, New Mexico
David Baltz   Albuquerque, New Mexico
Horak called it 11b in his log.
I thought it was really sustained! Sep 13, 2015
Mick S
Utah
Mick S   Utah
This always felt like a stout lead, but not .11+. All those sport climbers working the moves must have broken a few key holds! Jul 20, 2015
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
  5.11d
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
  5.11d
No worries George! Nothing wrong with the occasional sandbag. I noticed this is rated .11d in the Falcon New Mexico guidebook which feels about right. This is a great crag if you realize what you are in for. I would say .11d for this, .12c for Completely Clueless, and .12b/c for Bojin after my visit today. Jul 8, 2015
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11b
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11b
Patrick, I'm sorry if I sandbagged you when I posted the route descriptions & ratings after I climbed this and the climb to its left a few years ago. I posted the 11a rating from the book. They felt hard for the grade to me as well, but I had good reasons why I wouldn't be climbing at my best that day and clipping old bolts doesn't make me more confident. I haven't yet gotten back to Techweenie Buttress, but I did think these were worth repeating.

Think I'll switch it to the less specific "5.11", without the little letter. That's what it is in the old Hill book too. Jul 8, 2015
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
  5.11d
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
  5.11d
I pity the hapless bastard who heads to Techweeny Buttress for a relaxing day of sport climbing. Crankenstein is a true sandbag of epic proportions probably more in line with standard .12a in the Sandias. I assume the nature of these routes has changed over the years, I even managed to break a hold on it today.

Mellow climbing leads to the second bolt. From here the route weaves right to the arete for then back to the face on solid mid 5.11 climbing for about 30 feet. Without resting bust out a cruxy thin sequence reaching a camouflaged gaston/crimp. Some easier crimps (still probably 5.11 climbing) make you think it might be over, but it's not. Clip a manky bolt and fire a tricky .11+ traverse back to the blocky mantle jugs (protected by another manky bolt).

First I thought I was being a wimp, but this route didn't feel all that much easier than Bojin, the 12c to the far left. Decent climbing all in all. Jul 6, 2015
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11b
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11b
In April 2012, 3 bolts were 1/4" (one of them was the last bolt a few feet right of the anchor, which isn't as important as the others); the other 4 were bigger. I think the crux was protected by a more modern bolt, but don't remember for sure. Aug 23, 2012
Has anyone replaced these old 1/4" bolts yet ? Aug 22, 2012