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Routes in Techweeny Buttress

Completely Clueless T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crackula T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crankenstein S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Description

The first large wall on the left as you descend into Echo Canyon.
If micro edges and clipping bolts are more your style, the clean face in the middle of the formation offers three sport routes.

The top of the formation is seen from the La Luz trail. Upon toping out on the formation follow a solid trail for 30 yards back to the La Luz.

Getting There

From the crest parking lot start down the La Luz (0.5 miles). Once at the trail junction follow a faint climbers trail south into Echo Canyon.

3 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Techweeny Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crackula
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crankenstein
Sport, Alpine
Crackula 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Crankenstein 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, Alpine
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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
As you walk right from Crankenstein:
The first climb on the face just right, with an obvious low old bolt is "Fear of Flying" described in the old Hill book, 5.8A4 (in 1981, anyway, who knows what a modern rating is).
To the right of that is a chossy-looking chimney (5.9+ in old Hill book).
Right of that is a newer bolted 2-pitch M.Beverly line I think he told me was called "Masterblaster". I've heard it's good but haven't climbed it.
I'm not sure where the 2 climbs D.Milford mentions that start half way up are in relation to MB's route.

Feel free to correct / update me, or contact Marc to sort it out. May 6, 2014
Thanks Bill, Mick, sorry it took me so long to get back to you. I will enter full route info for the 2 routes on the back side (East) of Techweenie soon. I only did the upper parts (what he is calling "pitch 2") these can be reached by dropping off the buttress to the East from the top, takes you right to the base of these routes. The bolted line on the very end of the arete is The Flesherizer, 5.11b. The bolted line (bring small - medium stoppers also for the top) a few feet to the right of that is Creature Feature 5.10a. Enjoy. Aug 31, 2013
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
I sent a note to David M, asking if he had anything he'd like to post here about the routes. May 3, 2013
Mick S
Utah
Mick S   Utah
Bolted by Dave Milford 10+ years ago. I can't remember the names, but I believe they are 5.10+/.11-. May 3, 2013
Does anyone have any information about the bolted lines around the corner from Crankenstien? I climbed one of them yesterday (the one on the least steep, most featured face). It was pretty awesome, and when I reached the anchors I discovered there was a second pitch :). It looks like there are at least two (maybe three) cool looking lines up the buttress around the corner from Crankenstien which could form a second pitch for this route. Apr 29, 2013

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