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Routes in U Crags

End Game T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Its Only Rock and Roll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peuterey Ridge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Return of the King T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Second Time's the Charm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Gene Vallee & Andy Ross
Page Views: 130 total, 2/month
Shared By: apross on Apr 22, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

A nice mellow route with lots of natural pro and big belay ledges.
Highly recommended for a first time route in the area.

P1. Start up left facing corner to a big block below bolt. Move up left to a corner where at the top move 30ft left to belay. 5.6 100ft.

P2. Follow the long right leaning crack with good gear to a big ledge. Small cam, good wire belay on the ledge to the left. 5.7 Rope stretcher 200ft

P3. Scramble left to below a right facing corner. Up this with good wires at the start to a big ledge, move right to bolt anchor below a large V groove. 5.6 60ft

P4. Up the groove then move right to belay. 5.6 120ft.

P5. Move up and right to bolt. Face climb up to a big ledge, move left to below another V groove. Good cams belay. 5.6 100ft.

P6. Romp up the groove to the top. 5.4 100ft.

Summit register cairn on left (south) summit. To descend, go 100 yards south and rap down It's only rock and roll. When down to big ledge, go 100 yards south again. Check pic/topo of "Rock and Roll" to better locate anchors on the way down.

Location

Drive the road to Two Finger Canyon. From here hike south on the flats .When entrance to One Finger Canyon is reached (about 30mins)walk to near its mouth then hike up to the left to where it levels .Continue to the formation (see topo)

Protection

Cams from 1/2" to 3", Set of wires, Slings & QD's. Two 60m ropes for rap.
Climbed this Nov 3 with Jon G. Pretty cool. Somehow missed the rap "to ground" from the massive ledge. The top of P2 Rock and Roll anchors are south 100 yards or so. There are two raps from here to the ground: one short one to the top of P1 R&R anchors, then a longer one to the ground. This would be apparent if one had ascended R&R, but maybe not so much if coming from STTC. Nov 4, 2013
David Pneuman
Western, CO
David Pneuman   Western, CO
Go 100 yards south and rap down it's only rock and roll. When down to big ledge, go 100 yards south again. Apr 27, 2013