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Routes in U Crags

End Game T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Its Only Rock and Roll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peuterey Ridge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Return of the King T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Second Time's the Charm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Shingo Ohkawa, Paul Ross, April 16th 2012
Page Views: 706 total, 10/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Apr 21, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Named after the majestic Peuterey Ridge on Mt Blanc... The ridge has little majestic climbing after all its only the Sandstone Alps ! Given three stars for it being a fun climb in a nice setting with great views.To get to the start keep on the flat until directly below the ridge then hike steeply up to the top of the wave.

P1)Easy climbing up to the foot of the corner and double anchors. 60' 5.3.
P2)Climb the groove to the roof past one bolt and some cam placements then left to where the ridge flattens. Here one will pass rap anchors for descent. 60' 5.7.
P3) About 600' of 4th class to where the ridge steepens below a chossy gully.
P4)Enter the small gully and exit right up to the start of the perfect rock on the final buttress. One can take a natural belay here (60')or continue about 70' to the summit passing cam, stopper placements and one bolt .130' 5.4. A stance was taken behind the summit block.
Register under small cairn.
Rap anchors on the summit block. Rap the route.

Location

Camp at the end of the Two Finger Canyon road. Hike south for about 30 mins to One Finger Canyon keeping on the flats. Walk up to just before the entrance of the canyon then hike up to the left...continue keeping low until the obvious Ridge comes into view.

Protection

Cams 1/4" to 2.5" Stoppers. Might just need one 60m rope for descent.
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Could be the second .. Glad you had fun .. Nov 4, 2013
John Evans
  5.7
John Evans  
  5.7
My wife and I climbed this as our last route of a fun Eastern Reef long weekend. We enjoyed the approach hike witch took about 45 minutes or so of generally flat walking. Very enjoyable pitches of climbing, with the last very well positioned and topping out on a pointy little summit with room for one. Maybe the second ascent? Oct 31, 2013