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Its Only Rock and Roll

Name: Its Only Rock and Roll
Rating: 4.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in U Crags

	End Game T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Its Only Rock and Roll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Peuterey Ridge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Return of the King T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Second Time's the Charm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Trad, 710 ft (215 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
GPS:	38.88347, -110.45548
FA:	Shingo Ohkawa Andy Ross Paul Ross (var leads) 3/21/2012
Page Views:	1,602 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Paul Ross on Mar 29, 2012
Admins:	Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

A superb climb with great situations. The hike to the formation takes just over an hour from Two Finger canyon camp.Starts slightly left of center up a left facing groove( see topo )

P1)Climb the groove that has good cam and wire placements and four pro bolts. to double Anchors slightly to the right right of its end. 200'5.9.
P2)Up slab on left past one bolt to double anchors on massive ledge system.60'5.5.
P3)Scramble up about 40'to a narrow ledge and follow down to the right to the start of an obvious right facing groove.140'
P4)Another excellent pitch .Climb the groove, good cam and wire placements and three pro bolts. Trend to the right near its top to double anchors below a left leaning groove. 170' 5.7.
P5).Follow easy groove to the summit and double anchors to the right.150'5.4
Register in small cairn.

Descent. Rap to anchors at top of the last pitch, then backtrack the anchors to the top of P1, then from here to the ground.

Location

Drive the road to Two Finger Canyon. From here hike south on the flats .When entrance to One Finger Canyon is reached (about 30mins)walk to near its mouth then hike up to the left to where it levels .Continue to the formation (see topo)