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Routes in Secteur Demi Lune

Angel Dust S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beauf Story S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Canabis ou nutella S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Carte Blanche S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Changement de Look S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chant de cristal S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
El daü S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Esperanza S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gre Blanc S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Harley Davidson S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Katina S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
L'ami caouette S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
La Javanaise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Les dessous chics S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Les sucettes à l'anis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Marron derriére S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Marylou S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Minette a la Plage S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mélody Nelson S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Papyrus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sans Peur et Sanglier S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Un panda sur la banquise S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
lapinerie S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 674 total, 10/month
Shared By: Zach Alberts on Feb 21, 2012
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

You & This Route


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Description

A newer line and also one of my favorite climbs at the Demi-Lune. I don't think i'll ever get tired of doing this one. Classic Ceuse face climbing on pockets and edges up a slightly overhanging orange wall. Start on good pockets which slowly get smaller until you make thin moves out left which lead to a sequential crux over a slight bulge at 40ft. More thin moves on shallow pockets lead through a couple big pockets good enough to shake out on. One more final crux through the final bulge (tricky) and voila!

Location

Just to the right of 'la javanaise' on the other side of the bush.

Protection

Bolts to a fixed anchor. You need about 12 draws.

Photos

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