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Routes in Secteur Demi Lune

Angel Dust S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beauf Story S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Canabis ou nutella S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Carte Blanche S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Changement de Look S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chant de cristal S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
El daü S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Esperanza S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gre Blanc S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Harley Davidson S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Katina S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
L'ami caouette S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
La Javanaise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Les dessous chics S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Les sucettes à l'anis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Marron derriére S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Marylou S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Minette a la Plage S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mélody Nelson S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Papyrus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sans Peur et Sanglier S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Un panda sur la banquise S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
lapinerie S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 502 total, 5/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jan 7, 2009
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

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Description

Climb Maylou to its anchor and continue up the slab to the hanging headwall. Tackle the 10' wide grey streak with easy moves starting out but a crux a couple of bolts up on sloping holds traversing up and left.

A 70m rope left me a little short of the ground so it is better to rethread through the lower anchor, or face a 15' down climb to the ground. BELAYER BEWARE. tie a knot in the end of the rope.

Location

Starts up Marylou and continues up the great wide grey streak to the top of the wall. Near the low point of the half moon cut out in the top of the cliff.

Protection

Bolts and a bolted anchor.

Photos

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Cowboy Roy
SLC, UT
Cowboy Roy   SLC, UT
Nails hard for the grade and rarely sent. it is way more dynamic then other routes at ceuse Nov 30, 2014