Elevation: 5,776 ft
GPS: 44.499, 5.937 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 78,798 total · 615/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jan 7, 2009
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514
Saturday
80°F - 55°F 27°C - 13°C
Sunday
82°F - 59°F 28°C - 15°C
Monday
82°F - 59°F 28°C - 15°C
Tuesday
79°F - 60°F 26°C - 16°C
Wednesday
80°F - 60°F 27°C - 16°C
Thursday
80°F - 58°F 27°C - 14°C
Friday
75°F - 54°F 24°C - 12°C

Description

Limestone... Duh, Amazing routes...Check, Longish approach...Yes. Can be crowded on weekends, but seclusion can be found if that is what you are after. Singular brilliant cliff band crowning a hilltop. Face curves from West to South to East so sun and shade can be had pretty much anytime you want, to cold or wet in the dead of winter, the top of the cliff is a ski slope. Summer follow the shade, late fall follow the sun. The cliff is divided into about 12 different sectures and each has its own character, some are lower angle and more boken, others sport stunning stripes of blue and orange, some are just plain huge and others quite dark and intimidating.

Great routes from 5.10 to as hard as you can climb. Single and multi pitch sport climbing. A rack of 15 or more draws and 70m rope will do on most routes, of note the guide book only mentions if routes are longer than 35m so if you have a 60m rope beware.

Because of the long approach many climber stash their rope, QD's, shoes and harnesses under the boulders at the cliff they plan on climbing at the next day or a favorite spot, and just hike up with clothes food and water. This has lead to problems in the States most notably with bouldering pads but at the time I visited it seemed like standard practice.

Getting There

Make your way to Gap. Then head up the hill to Sigoyer and up D219 toward the hill top cliff. There is camping on the right, Les Guerins and a gite/auberge (mini hotel/bed and breakfast) on the left and finally parking at the Col Des Guerins at the end of the road.

96 Total Climbs

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Location: Ceuse Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Ceuse

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
La Javanaise
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
La Petite Illusion
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
Angel Dust
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Pourquoi Pas
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 13
Super Mickey
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Blocage Violent
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 9
San John's Pecos
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 5
Berlin
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
Mirage
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
Le Privililege du Serpent
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 7
Makach Walou
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 3
Couleur du Vent
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 6
Carte Blanche
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 4
L'ami caouette
Sport
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 8
Les Colonnettes
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
La Javanaise Secteur Demi Lune
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
La Petite Illusion Secteur Berlin
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Angel Dust Secteur Demi Lune
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Pourquoi Pas Un pont sur l'infini
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Super Mickey Secteur Cascade
 13
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Blocage Violent Secteur Berlin
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
San John's Pecos Secteur Berlin
 9
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Berlin Secteur Berlin
 5
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Mirage Secteur Cascade
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Le Privililege du Serpent Secteur Cascade
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Makach Walou Secteur Berlin
 7
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Couleur du Vent Secteur Berlin
 3
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Carte Blanche Secteur Demi Lune
 6
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
L'ami caouette Secteur Demi Lune
 4
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Les Colonnettes Secteur Biographie
 8
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Ceuse »

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