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Elevation: 5,776 ft
GPS: 44.4991, 5.9366
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 181,114 total · 983/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jan 7, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Luc-514, David Riley

Description Suggest change

Limestone... Duh. Amazing routes... Check. Longish approach... Yes. Can be crowded on weekends, but seclusion can be found if that is what you are after. Singular brilliant cliff band crowning a hilltop. Face curves from West to South to East so sun and shade can be had pretty much anytime you want, to cold or wet in the dead of winter, the top of the cliff is a ski slope. Summer follow the shade, late fall follow the sun. The cliff is divided into about 12 different sectors and each has its own character, some are lower angle and more broken, others sport stunning stripes of blue and orange, some are just plain huge and others quite dark and intimidating.

Great routes from 5.10 to as hard as you can climb. Single and multi-pitch sport climbing. A rack of 15 or more draws and 70m rope will do on most routes. Note that the guide book only mentions length if routes are over 35m, so if you have a 60m rope beware.

Because of the long approach many climber stash their rope/quickdraws/shoes and harnesses under the boulders at the cliff they plan on climbing at the next day or a favorite spot, and just hike up with clothes, food, and water. This practice has lead to problems in the States most notably with bouldering pads but at the time I visited it seemed standard at Ceuse.

Getting There Suggest change

Make your way to Gap. Then head up the hill to Sigoyer and up D219 toward the hill top cliff. There is camping on the right, Les Guerins and a gite/auberge (mini hotel/bed and breakfast) on the left and finally parking at the Col Des Guerins at the end of the road.

148 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ceuse

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
Harley Davidson
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 25
La Petite Illusion
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
La Javanaise
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
Angel Dust
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 12
Mélody Nelson
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 17
Super Mickey
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 11
Esperanza
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 21
lapinerie
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 8
Blocage Violent
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 12
San John's Pecos
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 5
Vagabond D'occident
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 7
Le Privilège du Serpent
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 13
Makach Walou
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 7
Carte Blanche
Sport
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 10
Les Colonnettes
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Harley Davidson Secteur Demi Lune
 22
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
La Petite Illusion Secteur Berlin
 25
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
La Javanaise Secteur Demi Lune
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Angel Dust Secteur Demi Lune
 21
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Mélody Nelson Secteur Demi Lune
 12
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Super Mickey Secteur Cascade
 17
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Esperanza Secteur Demi Lune
 11
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
lapinerie Secteur Demi Lune
 21
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Blocage Violent Secteur Berlin
 8
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
San John's Pecos Secteur Berlin
 12
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Vagabond D'occident Secteur Cascade
 5
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Le Privilège du Serpent Secteur Cascade
 7
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Makach Walou Secteur Berlin
 13
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Carte Blanche Secteur Demi Lune
 7
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Les Colonnettes Secteur Biographie
 10
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Ceuse »

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