Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Van Horn?
Page Views: 503 total · 6/month
Shared By: Phill T on Feb 8, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the striking bolted arete to the left of SuedeHead. Climb the 5.easy right-facing dihedral past a bolt or two to the ledge on the left. Reach up and right, clip the bolt, and pull into the business. The first crux comes with strenuous layback moves requiring standing on a brick sized loose block. The fun doesn't end there, and the route will stick with you for another 4-5 bolts until you clip the chains.

This route clocks in at 5.11a in the book, but both my partner and I felt it was a huge sandbag at least as an onsight. The holds can be out of sight around the arete, and the sequence was not obvious at all. Pulling the crux will be much more difficult if/when that little block blows.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

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Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
I presume this is the route called "Side of Bacon" in Oct 24, 2012
dancesatmoonrise
  5.11a/b
dancesatmoonrise  
  5.11a/b
Jason, correct. However, it's been known as "The Arete" since the days of Mark's first book (1990.) Same route. Classic 5.11 arete.

Not 100% sure, but seem to remember it's a Van Horn route. Nov 15, 2012