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Routes in The Bank

1979 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
2010A S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
2112 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
2150 A.D. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
5.10 Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
5.10a corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.11 Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
5.9 crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Sharp S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Abu Simbel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Aerial Solution S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alcohollica S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alfalfa Omega S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Another Bolted Crack T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aoxamoxoa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Apple Cracks, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aspiring Frog S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
B Flat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
B/C S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Baby Face Nelson S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Back To The Future S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bambi Meets Godzilla S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Binge and Purge S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Birthing the Piggy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bits and Pieces S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole Sun S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bridget the Midget S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
British Persuasion S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bum Cakes (formerly listed as Buns) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Burnt Toast S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Butch Cassidy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
C Major T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
CJ & The Lesbian Seagull S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Ate My Homework, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cerebral Brain Freeze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Concentrated Weirdness S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corner Blitz S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Courage and Enlightenment S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crab Nation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dancin` Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dave Dangle S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deconstructing Harry S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Desserter S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dillinger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Deed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disciples of Hell S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Doggie Style T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Don Show, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dust Lust S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Emperor's Robe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Energy Before Ecstasy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ethics? What Ethics? S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Feverish S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flesh Tuxedo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
From Russia With Love S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Future Fossil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gambino S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gen X ation (aka Musso Route) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Generation X S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ginger Midget, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Goodfellas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harry S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Heaven is Waiting S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Heavy Weather S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Heretic S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hostile Crankover S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I Have a Dream S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Cream Hangover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Incredible Weather S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jesse James S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kicker S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Killer Chihuahua S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knot Too Many Roaches S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ladies' Night In Buffalo S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Large Marge S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Petit Verdon S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Pincher S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lefty S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lesser of Two Evils S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Let Me Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leverage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lick and a Promise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lime Street S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Living in America S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lloyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost Planet Airman S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Louis XIV S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loves Me Like a Rock S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lynch Mob S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ma Barker S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Machine Gun Kelly S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
McFly S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Metamusso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mighty Aphrodite S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mighty Mouse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Misery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mismatched Partners S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
My Versailles Guy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neopolitan Headrush S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Comer (aka New Corner) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Future for the Timid S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
No Rest For the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Number 1 Super Guy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On the Mushroom S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
On the Ritz S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Once Upon a Time S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Otis S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Peking S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pennies and Piggydust T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Peter Pan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pig City Nights S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pink Torpedo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PiƱon Slalom S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plate Tectonics S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poncho S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poncho and the Three Perverts S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Power Broker S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Prestevious T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pretty Boy Floyd S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Primal Scream S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Project Focus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Puking Yuppies T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Pullin' Down in the Fields of Cotton S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Purple Packer Smacker S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Purple Reign S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quickstrike S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
R.A.M.M. S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rack, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ragnar S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Razor Burn (aka Stewart's Slab) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Richter Scale S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ripped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Frog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Scarf and Barf S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scarface S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scavenger's Daughter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scramblin' Fran S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Season Down Under S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shady Character S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shelf Life T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shelfish S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sicilian Style S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Silver Rain S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sleeper S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot Machine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solitude S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sonic Youth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soprano S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sparkle In The Rain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sparky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stair Master S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Starving Hippies S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Staying Power S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stick It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stomach Stapler S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stormy Weather S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stranger in Moscow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sty in the Sky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
SuedeHead S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Surreal Estate S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sweepings, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Taping Tendons S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Team Anorexia S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tendon Respite S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Thank You, Minneapolis! S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
They Only Come Out At Night S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
This is Your Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Three Old Dogs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thunder Tactics S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thunder Thighs S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tired Arms Recovery Program (T.A.R.P.) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tribal Boundary S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trundle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tuff Shed (aka B&C) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Under The Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 2 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.7 (Earth Day?) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 8+ S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsaid, The (aka The Brothel) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unusual Weather S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ussen S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
War In The Banks S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to Shelf Road S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
What's Biting Me? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Who Asked You? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Why Left S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Will Purr For Treats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
You Were Meant For Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
jasonbecker.com S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Richard Aschert, Dave Dangle, Darryl Roth
Page Views: 7,205 total · 35/month
Shared By: Steve Merschel on Apr 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is on an excellent section of the cliff (named Back To The Future Wall) with 4 or 5 other routes that got stellar ratings in the guidebook. It is a great place to spend a day. This is the easiest, with the others being hard 11s or easy 12s.

Back To The Future is easily identified by 2 huge pockets, side by side about 8 feet off the ground. This route has everything. It's not just a pocket-fest like many of the other routes at Shelf. The crux is about halfway up and ends in a huge bucket. The route is sustained and ends on the slabby sharp-as-hell rock that I found at the top of most of the routes at Shelf.

Protection

7-8 bolts to the anchors.

Photos

two chains
Fucken Zion
  5.11b
two chains   Fucken Zion
  5.11b
Polished??!! Don't ever go to The Pit in Flagstaff. See what real polished limestone looks like. Route is rad and an easy O.S. do to good rests! And save some mojo for the last 20'. Mar 25, 2016
Julia
  5.11c
Julia  
  5.11c
This route is very polished but mostly on the easier holds. A really cool move for you shorties out there, moving off the ledge around the middle of the route. May 21, 2015
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
  5.11c
Jake Dickerson   Lander, WY  
  5.11c
Super fun route! A little polished but not to bad considering it was the first route bolted on the wall! The layback crux is about 1/2 way up. Feb 28, 2015
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Oh boy...way too much fun. After bolt 5, it gets tricky but so enjoyable. Jim and I ran laps on this today, and it never got old. Definitely polished, but eh, hop on it! Oct 6, 2013
gumbotron
Denver, CO
  5.11b
gumbotron   Denver, CO
  5.11b
Truly an awesome route up a great wall. One of the better routes I've been on at shelf. Jul 20, 2012
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
  5.11c
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
  5.11c
Thanks, Brandon! Jan 18, 2011
Brandon Schirm
colorado springs, co
Brandon Schirm   colorado springs, co
A BOLT HAS BEEN ADDED TO THIS ROUTE (THE BOLT THAT CAME OUT) ON 12-16-2010. Dec 19, 2010
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
  5.11
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
  5.11
Definitely a classic! And polished probably because it is a classic. If you make it past the technical crux (at the flake) and are weak like me, get ready for a big fall if you fub the clip - there will be no backing down from this point! Oct 29, 2007
Brian Adzima
San Francisco
Brian Adzima   San Francisco
Polished. Aug 19, 2007
Bill Ballace
Pullman,WA
  5.11b/c
Bill Ballace   Pullman,WA
  5.11b/c
Probably one of the best of its grade at Shelf. The bolt at the crux must have been replaced because it looked good to me. Feb 2, 2006
I came back to clear something up on this route description...I took about 20 falls on this thing on top rope. Most of the description I put on here was just quotes from the ropegun that put up the top rope for me. Sweet route though, but there is crux on there that I remember trying some layback move on it and fell off so many times that my belayer almost tied me off and left. I found a hidden hold after a LONG time and that made it possible, though still tough. My lard falling on this route so many times may be the reason for the bolt weakness listed in the comment above. Dec 8, 2005
Jesse Ryan
  5.11b
Jesse Ryan  
  5.11b
Maybe it's a first. On my birthday, I did a birthday suit ascent. Anybody claim an earlier ascents in this style? May 20, 2005
Kirk Woerner
  5.11b
Kirk Woerner  
  5.11b
Great route. However, a WARNING. The bolt protecting the crux is suspect. After 8 whippers (by my girlfriend) and two by me, when she went back to TR the crux, the hangar came off the bolt (we had a directional in it)! The reason is the bolt is too short and the nut will work it's way off. It looks like it's enough to just make sure the nut is finger tightened before you trust it, but MAKE SURE YOU DO THIS. I think it's the 3rd bolt, it's the one below the roof. Jan 25, 2004
The fifth bolt (just before the crux) on BACK TO THE FUTURE (.11b) needs immediate replacement. The hanger popped off on me while on a roadtrip (no drill, no wrench) & doing a linkup of BTTF and the route to the right. I replaced the hanger, hand-tightened the nut, and marked it with a chalk 'X,' but the bolt is still too small for the hole and needs to be replaced---the hole itself looks fine.

Cheers--Dustin Dec 25, 2003
What a sweet route! Definitely hop on this one and give it a go. Don't let your guard down for the last stretch to the anchor, though. Nov 27, 2001