Type: Sport
FA: Richard Aschert, Dave Dangle, Darryl Roth
Page Views: 7,687 total · 36/month
Shared By: Steve Merschel on Apr 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


170 Opinions

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Description

This route is on an excellent section of the cliff (named Back To The Future Wall) with 4 or 5 other routes that got stellar ratings in the guidebook. It is a great place to spend a day. This is the easiest, with the others being hard 11s or easy 12s.

Back To The Future is easily identified by 2 huge pockets, side by side about 8 feet off the ground. This route has everything. It's not just a pocket-fest like many of the other routes at Shelf. The crux is about halfway up and ends in a huge bucket. The route is sustained and ends on the slabby sharp-as-hell rock that I found at the top of most of the routes at Shelf.

Protection

7-8 bolts to the anchors.

Photos

What a sweet route! Definitely hop on this one and give it a go. Don't let your guard down for the last stretch to the anchor, though. Nov 27, 2001
The fifth bolt (just before the crux) on BACK TO THE FUTURE (.11b) needs immediate replacement. The hanger popped off on me while on a roadtrip (no drill, no wrench) & doing a linkup of BTTF and the route to the right. I replaced the hanger, hand-tightened the nut, and marked it with a chalk 'X,' but the bolt is still too small for the hole and needs to be replaced---the hole itself looks fine.

Cheers--Dustin Dec 25, 2003
Kirk Woerner
  5.11b
Kirk Woerner  
  5.11b
Great route. However, a WARNING. The bolt protecting the crux is suspect. After 8 whippers (by my girlfriend) and two by me, when she went back to TR the crux, the hangar came off the bolt (we had a directional in it)! The reason is the bolt is too short and the nut will work it's way off. It looks like it's enough to just make sure the nut is finger tightened before you trust it, but MAKE SURE YOU DO THIS. I think it's the 3rd bolt, it's the one below the roof. Jan 25, 2004
Jesse Ryan
  5.11b
Jesse Ryan  
  5.11b
Maybe it's a first. On my birthday, I did a birthday suit ascent. Anybody claim an earlier ascents in this style? May 20, 2005
Steve Merschel
  5.11b/c
Steve Merschel  
  5.11b/c
I came back to clear something up on this route description...I took about 20 falls on this thing on top rope. Most of the description I put on here was just quotes from the ropegun that put up the top rope for me. Sweet route though, but there is crux on there that I remember trying some layback move on it and fell off so many times that my belayer almost tied me off and left. I found a hidden hold after a LONG time and that made it possible, though still tough. My lard falling on this route so many times may be the reason for the bolt weakness listed in the comment above. Dec 8, 2005
Bill Ballace
Pullman,WA
  5.11b/c
Bill Ballace   Pullman,WA
  5.11b/c
Probably one of the best of its grade at Shelf. The bolt at the crux must have been replaced because it looked good to me. Feb 2, 2006
Brian Adzima
San Francisco
Brian Adzima   San Francisco
Polished. Aug 19, 2007
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
  5.11
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
  5.11
Definitely a classic! And polished probably because it is a classic. If you make it past the technical crux (at the flake) and are weak like me, get ready for a big fall if you fub the clip - there will be no backing down from this point! Oct 29, 2007
Brandon Schirm
colorado springs, co
Brandon Schirm   colorado springs, co
A BOLT HAS BEEN ADDED TO THIS ROUTE (THE BOLT THAT CAME OUT) ON 12-16-2010. Dec 19, 2010
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
  5.11c
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
  5.11c
Thanks, Brandon! Jan 18, 2011
gumbotron
Golden, CO
  5.11b
gumbotron   Golden, CO
  5.11b
Truly an awesome route up a great wall. One of the better routes I've been on at shelf. Jul 20, 2012
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Oh boy...way too much fun. After bolt 5, it gets tricky but so enjoyable. Jim and I ran laps on this today, and it never got old. Definitely polished, but eh, hop on it! Oct 6, 2013
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
  5.11c
Jake Dickerson   Lander, WY  
  5.11c
Super fun route! A little polished but not to bad considering it was the first route bolted on the wall! The layback crux is about 1/2 way up. Feb 28, 2015
Julia
  5.11c
Julia  
  5.11c
This route is very polished but mostly on the easier holds. A really cool move for you shorties out there, moving off the ledge around the middle of the route. May 21, 2015
two chains
Fucken Zion
  5.11b
two chains   Fucken Zion
  5.11b
Polished??!! Don't ever go to The Pit in Flagstaff. See what real polished limestone looks like. Route is rad and an easy O.S. do to good rests! And save some mojo for the last 20'. Mar 25, 2016