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Routes in Illusion Crags

Arm Forces T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Con Jurors T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corner's Inquest T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
David Copperhead T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deez Guys T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Perception T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
First Lady of Magic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
French Bulges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magician's Hat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mirage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Morph Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sendable T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sensible T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sensual T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slight of Hand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Who Deany T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Collins/Allen, 94
Page Views: 89 total · 1/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Feb 4, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Avoids lower seam by a scramble up+right, then back left along a ledge. From there straight up crack to sling anchor, then past bush to obvious right-leaning crack in upper varnish. Follow this to a bolted anchor.

Location

Tall, shady, varnished wall around to the right of Who Deany vicinity. Anchor is visible just left of a wide crack just above a horizontal break a little over 100' up.

Protection

Double cams helpful.5-3

Description

Avoids lower seam by a scramble up+right, then back left along a ledge. From there straight up crack to sling anchor, then past bush to obvious right-leaning crack in upper varnish. Follow this to a bolted anchor.

Location

Tall, shady, varnished wall around to the right of Who Deany vicinity. Anchor is visible just left of a wide crack just above a horizontal break a little over 100' up.

Protection

Double cams helpful.5-3

Photos

- No Photos -
This is more appreciation than I've gotten for anything I've replaced outside of Crimson. Thanks, gentlemen. You can write checks to the ASCA and help keep it going, fat stainless ain't cheap but it sure is nice to have.

Yeah the anchor was pretty much a joke, Swain has put in some real garbage, but this anchor is the prize winner. Two bolts sticking out more than 2 inches, the one that was halfway decent a spinner with a (as always, non-climbing strength rated) cold shut hanger.

Once the route cleans up it should get more stars, other than the crispiness and the anchor, it was pretty fun. Cold as hell though-definitely a warm weather crag! Feb 6, 2012
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
Replacing this anchor is indeed a great charitable act. Apparently it had been originally established as the anchor for Sore Sirs before we put up Con Jurors. I remember being terrified rapping from it when we did the FA many years ago. Feb 6, 2012
Replaced anchor on this crispy climb-WORST bolted anchor I've seen in Red Rock.

Amazingly bad anchor is now brand new ASCA stainless. The climb is OK but needs a lot more ascents to clean it up. Feb 5, 2012

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