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Routes in Illusion Crags

Arm Forces T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Con Jurors T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corner's Inquest T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
David Copperhead T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deez Guys T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Perception T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
First Lady of Magic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
French Bulges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magician's Hat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mirage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Morph Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sensual T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slight of Hand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Who Deany T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Joe Herbst, Nanouk Borche; 1973
Page Views: 2,365 total, 16/month
Shared By: John Hegyes on Sep 17, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route is located on the far left side of the Illusion Crags, about 15 feet right of French Bulges in a prominent right facing corner that features three roofs. The route starts on a small belay ledge at a yucca, just below some bushes. Ascend the corner, working some cracks on the left side and then pull the roofs. Very fun.

There is a two bolt anchor above the third roof, with some slings you can rappel off the route - a 60 meter rope reaches to about ten feet above the base of the climb, but the downclimbing from here is easy. Watch out when you pull your rope, there is a high potential for snagging it in a crack.

Or you can continue past the bolts, up easy terrain, and walk off right down the first gully.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

Rope got stuck after the first pull. Made the mistake of giving it a tug from the ground and got it very stuck. Was able to yank it out after some prodding while on the second lead. Pulled it from the far right after flipping the rope over the top bulge and had no issues on the second pull. A great, great route in a beautiful setting. Worth the visit. Sep 24, 2017
MN norske
Henderson
  5.9+
MN norske   Henderson
  5.9+
Has anchors at the top with multiple old slings for rapping off of. No doubt about it this is a classic climb. My rope got stuck at the first roof like everyone else. Good luck with that. Easier for the upper body strong. Apr 6, 2014
Andrew Yasso
Las Vegas, NV
 
Andrew Yasso   Las Vegas, NV
 
Used a 70M rope and was able to rappel within two feet of the ground. Walked about 20 feet away from the base of the crag to pull the rope and had no issue.

On lead I pulled the moves under the crux utilizing a fist jam that was very not off-width in my experience. My partner followed completely face-climbing, which like the poster above, likely makes it a tad harder.

Overall, excellent climb. Fun techy stemming at the bottom, a bit pumpy in the middle, all on stellar rock. Jan 11, 2014
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
A definite classic. Even though the last section may look like and off-width, it is definitely not. You can face climb on jugs below the lip and lie-back the corner very easily. It may change the route to 9+ that way, but still better than trying any off-width moves. Our 60m did not get us all the way to the ground. We could easily walk off to the climbers right (some loose rock), but this meant pulling the rope near the rope eater, which it did. Luckily another party was climbing up to pull the rope out. Jun 6, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
Definitely take a #3 and a #4 for the middle roof (crux) and sling them both long to reduce rope drag.

Be very careful pulling your ropes. The lower-most roof is a rope eater- the crack there is perfect for snagging a rope and not letting go! I had to climb up and hang on a piece for a couple of minutes to rescue it, and then I had to down climb the thing! Spooky!

Great route- a definite classic, I'm shocked it is not done more often. Dec 26, 2005
10b4me  
My guess is that the climb is named "arm forces" because of the arm bar needed to finish the off-widthy second roof. I was able to place a #4 below the roof and a #3 in the roof. I might have liked a #3.5 instead but the #3 held me when I fell just after pulling over the lip, so it certainly did its job. Nov 28, 2005