Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Todd Swain, Donette Swain
Page Views: 811 total · 7/month
Shared By: E IV on Mar 17, 2010
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Very thin face climbing for 4 bolts, with a groundfall potential getting to the 2nd bolt. Pull a bulge about halfway up on good holds (some are fragile), to another thin section. The top section takes small gear but the climbing isn't as hard as the bottom.

Location

Just right of Skinny Mini, shares anchors. A 70m rope barely reaches up and down with stretch.

Protection

Mostly bolted (careful getting to the 2nd bolt), the last 20 feet take small TCU's or C3s.

Photos

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Hangers seem to have been replaced at one point. Too cold to get on this one, but looks like R or better from the ground, failing to clip 2nd bolt probably means a chopper ride... Feb 5, 2012
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Failing to clip the first 3 bolts I would say is also pretty dangerous. Had an old-school exciting feel to it. I wish the upper section wasn't neutered with it's retro. There are a lot more bolts on this than the guide suggests. If you clip all of the bolts, you only need a few finger sized pieces with some nuts. Apr 21, 2012
Second Tom's sentiment. Failing to clip all of the first three bolts would likely spell trouble. If worried, you could climb Skinny Mini (Slight of Hand) and clip just the first three bolts while being lowered. There are way more than 5 bolts on this thing currently. And a 70 will definitely get you back to the ground. Unlikely this thing is 140 feet. Sep 25, 2017