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Routes in Roof Right Side

Big Smile S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cheeky Fucker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chill out Syndrom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Endgegner S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Frechdachs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hanging Garden S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jungle King S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Keep on Smiling S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Licht am Ende des Tunnels S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Monkey Trail S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pi Mai S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Saugeburt S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Schweinerussel S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Schwing dei Ding S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Schwing mei Ding S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
To Bobby S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Florian Schiffer Feb. 2011
Page Views: 544 total · 7/month
Shared By: Matty Zane on Jan 31, 2012
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Description

Big Smile is the hardest climb on the cliff to date. Lots of kneebars and heelhooks are required to manage the pump that will make most climbers arms explode. An easier steep start on big holds leads to the first crux: a funky undercling to reach a big hold in a hole (worst move of the climb). From here more steep fun climbing with good rests leads to a steep lip. Pull the lip and take a good long rest before the upper crux: a big reach to a small pinch and a small pocket. After sticking the crux move, skip the clip and make one more hard lunge to a victory jug! If you fall off the last move (which I did numerous times) you have the pleasure of being lowered through a big ants nest in the tree below! Clip the anchors and then go grab a beer lao from uli and lounge in the sun all day.

Location

In the center of the roof, marked with paint.

Protection

All bolts are equipped with permanent draws.

Description

Big Smile is the hardest climb on the cliff to date. Lots of kneebars and heelhooks are required to manage the pump that will make most climbers arms explode. An easier steep start on big holds leads to the first crux: a funky undercling to reach a big hold in a hole (worst move of the climb). From here more steep fun climbing with good rests leads to a steep lip. Pull the lip and take a good long rest before the upper crux: a big reach to a small pinch and a small pocket. After sticking the crux move, skip the clip and make one more hard lunge to a victory jug! If you fall off the last move (which I did numerous times) you have the pleasure of being lowered through a big ants nest in the tree below! Clip the anchors and then go grab a beer lao from uli and lounge in the sun all day.

Location

In the center of the roof, marked with paint.

Protection

All bolts are equipped with permanent draws.

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