Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: BJ Sbarra, Lynn Sanson
Page Views: 1,769 total · 20/month
Shared By: BJ Sbarra on Dec 19, 2011
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

Start in a shallow corner, then move right at the first bolt. Climb up to a ledge, then follow the crack in a corner to a hand rail. Traverse right, then pull through the roof on huge holds. Ascend easier climbing to the top. It is fun the whole way.

Location

This is the next route left of Step Up to the Flake, but before Thin and Crispy. It shares a start with an undone project that goes left.

Protection

10 bolts.

Photos

BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
  5.10a
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
  5.10a
In memory of our dog, Sarah Nicklepup, who died unexpectedly last spring. She loved the Pup Tent! Dec 19, 2011
Bryan Gall
New Castle, CO
 
Bryan Gall   New Castle, CO
 
It really is a shame to see bolts next to that crack; it would eat up gear, but bolts are convenient. I'd wanted to go up that feature for a while but never found the time. The holds pulling through the roof may be suspect; be careful, that diving board feature seems cemented in well for now, but it feels really spooky trusting it. Sorry about the pup; my dogs have loved main elk too. Mar 22, 2012
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
  5.10a
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
  5.10a
Bryan - For sure the crack could take a couple pieces of gear, but as this is predominantly a sport crag, after talking to several others who have put up routes here, we decided to bolt it.

Also, I pried and hammered on the diving board for a long time, and it seemed quite solid, like the same choss band on Step up to the Flake, Puppy Love, Hanu, etc. Certainly something to keep an eye on though! Mar 23, 2012