Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jeff Achey
Page Views: 746 total · 9/month
Shared By: Alvaro Arnal on Jan 16, 2012
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Easy (5.9ish) climbing up the steep face leads to a V4 boulder problem through the awesome body-length roof. Some Cliffhanger-like beta got me through the roof and had me smiling at the chains. Fun route!

Location

On the far right of the Pup Tent, look up for the huge roof right before the trail cuts downhill along the cliff.

Protection

7 bolts; chain anchor

Photos

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In an effort to make this process more efficient, I'm adding two diagrams, one looking up at the roof from the belayer's point of view and the other looking right at the wall immediately above the roof. "Hold 1" is the same hold in both images.

So, I messed around with all different combinations of hand placement on the three holds and one crimp just above the roof but couldn't figure out anything that could get me to the next hold which I assume was about 1.5 feet above the crimp immediately to the left of the crack shown in the drawing.

HELP!!!



Mar 14, 2014
Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
  5.12a
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
  5.12a
BETA ALERT:

Hi, Grand Junction Mike. When you are matched on "hold two", try throwing your left heel up on "hold three", going to the crimp with your right hand and then crank off that heel hook to reach a good hold with your left hand and easier climbing above. It's been a while since I've done the route, but I do specifically remember that heel hook beta, because I remember thinking how crazy it was that I was heel hooking on a hold that's higher than my hands. This is a great route; get it done! Mar 14, 2014
J Achey  
Mike, I remember struggling with this thing until I found a hidden edge out on the arete to the right, gained from "#2," I think. If that's not the "crimp" in your diagrams, see if it helps. Mar 15, 2014