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Routes in Left Hand Wall

Feels Like Someone Else T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freelance Tramps (Variation) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Guanica S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limbomaniac T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Party's Over, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pindering to the Masses S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Resume Builder S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Six Bats And A Ringtail Cat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Susey's Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unemployment Line S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1 Kristina Bergdahl, Nick Martel. 12/2012, P2 Nick Martel, Jackson Bain, 3/2013
Page Views: 5,627 total · 69/month
Shared By: NickMartel on Dec 16, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Pitch 1: Stem up chimney through a constriction, then the chimney re-widens and then constricts again before a final 20' of water polished slab.

Pitch 2: Continue up 2 tiers of polished slab to ledges then up another chimney section to roof crux, then final 10' of slab to P2 anchors.

Pitch 3: Unprotected (except for the anchors) 20' 4th class up and right on easy but polished slabs to 2 bolt anchors on the the top of the cliff, and walk off to the left. You can also rap in from the top via these anchors.

You can also link the whole thing in 1 long pitch but I don't know if you would be able lower to the anchors atop pitch 1. Best to belay from the top. Both belays are comfortable.

It can also probably be climbed using only the slightly overhanging right wall at around 5.10/11??? and was bolted in such a way as to allow this. 2ed pitch was also bolted so as to allow climbing it without stemming.

Bats can/will fly out of 3 different areas of the route if disturbed which can be quite surprising, but they are harmless and cute!


Chimney/cave left of "Limbomainac", "Resume Builder", and "Unemployment Line".


Pitch 1: 7 camouflaged bolts (red, black and white) and chain anchors with hooks. All but the 3ed bolt are on the climbers right/right side of chimney. They are WELL camouflaged and several people have missed bolts so spot as many as you can from the ground. 5 are below the 2ed constriction and 2 are above it on the white water polished slab. It is never more than 10' from one bolt to the next.

Just below the crux you can see a set of chains off maybe 10' to your right. These are the chains of "Six Bats And A Ringtail Cat" not yours. "Guanica" stays in the chimney/water groove the whole way and the pitch 1 anchors are at a fairly big ledge with a bench-like rock formation that you can sit on while you belay if you choose to belay from the top.

Pitch 2: 7 more bolts (unpainted) to 2 bolt anchor with chains.


Tucson, Arizona
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
We debated whether or not to place a bolt at the crux 2ed constriction. We decided to put it in for peace of mind (even if it is strenuous to clip it) and as such the next bolt is a little bit higher than it would have otherwise been. However, the climbing gets easier above the constriction so if you elect to skip the crux clip the ensuing mild runout is not that bad. Dec 16, 2011
Matt Juaire
  5.8 PG13
Matt Juaire  
  5.8 PG13
Heading there tomorrow, can't wait to give this one a try! I will report back with comments when I return. Dec 16, 2011
Matt Juaire
  5.8 PG13
Matt Juaire  
  5.8 PG13
Really good new route! A few very minor run-outs, but nothing too bad and they are in easier parts of the climb. Can't wait to get back out on it another day! Dec 17, 2011
mike Herholz
mike Herholz   tucson
Nice solid moderate chimney route as long as it's daylight haha. Fun climb and looking forward for second pitch. Dec 24, 2011
tucson, az
Myk BROWN   tucson, az
Fun climb. Well worth doing. There are 2 bolts above the lip. They are really well camouflaged and kinda hard to find. Climbed past both bolts before I saw them. Nice job on the belay area. I bet you guys could do an awesome job fixing the belay areas around the corner...... Anchors have mussy hooks added to chains. Dec 26, 2011
Tucson, Arizona
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
Cleaned even more dirt out. One more brushing/cleaning session and it should be spotless. 2 golf ball sized pieces of rock came off too so belayer should still wear a helmet. Changed the hangers to the correct camo colors. Dec 31, 2011
Tomily ma  
Climbed this last Sunday. Super fun route. Nice bolts. We didn't notice anything loose. Miss Gulchesque Nov 23, 2012
Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
Nick Henscheid   Tucson, AZ
Fun route! First did it using both sides (.8) then using the right side only (10a). Feb 22, 2013
Tucson, Arizona
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
As of 3-2013 this now has a 60' 7 bolt 2ed pitch that goes at 5.8. The 2ed pitch has the same character as the 1st and is recommended. Thanks to Jackson for spending a day hanging out on this getting hit by small falling rocks, and getting P2 done before I left Tucson! BRING HELMETS!!! Enjoy! Mar 12, 2013
Jason Bowman
Tucson, AZ
Jason Bowman   Tucson, AZ
Fun climb. I think the first is a little more fun, but the second is definitely a worthwhile addition. First pitch is more sustained and the crux is noticeably harder than the crux of the second. Thanks for putting it up. I definitely recommend helmets, and on the second pitch the belayer should use a long leash so they can move around to dodge rocks. I pulled off what I thought was a solid hold but turned into a basketball size projectile. Saw one more large block that wants to break off but did not feel I could safely clean it with a crowd below. Nov 24, 2013
Tucson, Arizona
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
I am VERY sorry you had that experience. We did leave a few larger rock on some of the P2 ledges as we did not feel that we could safely trundle them without the possibility of damaging the hangers on P1. Kristina and I were actually on it this last weekend and did not find anything that was that big and loose but we all probably climb it differently, deeper or less deep in the chimney etc... I will get up there with a backpack and crow bar on a weekday ASAP.
I hope you still had some fun. Nov 30, 2013
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI

Chimney/cave left of "Limbomainac", "Resume Builder", and "Unemployment Line"."

Facing the wall, isn't this to the right of Limbomainac? Or maybe I didn't climb Limbomanianc and something else instead. Anyway Guanica is a fun route. Feb 15, 2014
Tucson, Arizona
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
"Guanica" is for sure to the left (down canyon/closer to the road)of "Limbomaniac". You may have climbed "Scorpion King", "Meteor Shower", etc (Forehand Wall)... thinking they were "Limbomaniac", "Unemployment Line", etc (Lefthand Wall proper)... If you were going off the guidebook STL-II it is an easy mistake to make as the Forehand Wall is the the first set of routes you find (3) but are not in the guide book (which shown "Limbomaniac" as the left-most/first route), then as you head farther up-canyon you hit the wall with "Limbomaniac" and "Guanica" etc (Lefthand Wall proper)..., "Guanica" is the chimney to the far left of this sector. Then if you continue around the corner and up the heinous scree you hit the wall of 10's (Backhand Wall), and finally a bit further up the scree are 2 fins of rock, between the two fins on the close side (down canyon side) of the 2ed rock fin is the Tweener Wall with "No Slack At GAC",
Hope it helps. Feb 15, 2014
Paul Zander
Bern, CH
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
Many bats flew out of the crack as I was climbing which definitely made it a little scarier. I thought it was quite fun leading it in one pitch. Drag was manageable, but I backcleaned, skipped some bolts and used some long slings. 1st pitch solid 5.8 crux, 2nd pitch 5.7 Jan 6, 2015
Joshua Munoz
Honolulu, HI
Joshua Munoz   Honolulu, HI
Easy climb to slip on. The rock is dusty and the holds become very slippery, especially once you make it past the 3rd bolt when the sun starts hitting your back. The last couple of bolts are a little more run out but it's super slabby so it's not difficult climbing once you're there. Also, I saw some bats just above the 3rd bolt on the right side of the chimney in the finger cracks. Don't freak out if they fly out! Sep 9, 2015
William Thiry
Las Vegas
William Thiry   Las Vegas
Excellent route. Very fun chimney with a tricky 5.9 crux at it's top (1st pitch). Feb 10, 2016
Fun for leader & follower. Slippery feet up top, but stemming balances that out. 5.8/5.7 sounds good. Great practice drill for top belaying/intro to multi for super beginners. Mar 25, 2017
Michael John
Tucson, AZ
Michael John   Tucson, AZ
Climbed it this morning. Be aware the 5th bolt on second pitch is loose, didn’t have a wrench to tighten it. Jul 6, 2018 · Temporary Report

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