All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (San… > Mount Lemmon (Cat… > 1 - Lower Highway > Hairpin Turn Area > Left Hand Wall
Avg: 2.4 from 76 votes
Routes in Left Hand Wall
|Feels Like Someone Else T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Freelance Tramps (Variation) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Guanica S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Limbomaniac T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Party's Over, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Pindering to the Masses S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Resume Builder S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Six Bats And A Ringtail Cat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Susey's Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Unemployment Line S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||P1 Kristina Bergdahl, Nick Martel. 12/2012, P2 Nick Martel, Jackson Bain, 3/2013|
|Page Views:||3,869 total, 53/month|
|Shared By:||NickMartel on Dec 16, 2011|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionPitch 1: Stem up chimney through a constriction, then the chimney re-widens and then constricts again before a final 20' of water polished slab.
Pitch 2: Continue up 2 tiers of polished slab to ledges then up another chimney section to roof crux, then final 10' of slab to P2 anchors.
Pitch 3: Unprotected (except for the anchors) 20' 4th class up and right on easy but polished slabs to 2 bolt anchors on the the top of the cliff, and walk off to the left. You can also rap in from the top via these anchors.
You can also link the whole thing in 1 long pitch but I don't know if you would be able lower to the anchors atop pitch 1. Best to belay from the top. Both belays are comfortable.
It can also probably be climbed using only the slightly overhanging right wall at around 5.10/11??? and was bolted in such a way as to allow this. 2ed pitch was also bolted so as to allow climbing it without stemming.
Bats can/will fly out of 3 different areas of the route if disturbed which can be quite surprising, but they are harmless and cute!
ProtectionPitch 1: 7 camouflaged bolts (red, black and white) and chain anchors with hooks. All but the 3ed bolt are on the climbers right/right side of chimney. They are WELL camouflaged and several people have missed bolts so spot as many as you can from the ground. 5 are below the 2ed constriction and 2 are above it on the white water polished slab. It is never more than 10' from one bolt to the next.
Just below the crux you can see a set of chains off maybe 10' to your right. These are the chains of "Six Bats And A Ringtail Cat" not yours. "Guanica" stays in the chimney/water groove the whole way and the pitch 1 anchors are at a fairly big ledge with a bench-like rock formation that you can sit on while you belay if you choose to belay from the top.
Pitch 2: 7 more bolts (unpainted) to 2 bolt anchor with chains.