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Routes in Left Hand Wall

Feels Like Someone Else T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freelance Tramps (Variation) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Guanica S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limbomaniac T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Party's Over, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pindering to the Masses S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Resume Builder S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Six Bats And A Ringtail Cat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Susey's Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unemployment Line S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Kristina Bergdahl-Martel, Nick Martel
Page Views: 558 total, 12/month
Shared By: NickMartel on Jan 8, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Climbs intermittent crack up blocky vertical face. Starts with some jamming, to slightly overhanging sidepull moves, to thin fingers lieback crack, to face move, to more crack, to reachy jug haul finish. Though vertical the blocky/bulgy nature makes it pumpy.

Climb finger/hand/fist crack to ledge at 12’. Clip 1st bolt and make crux sidepull move to gain finger crack. Climb finger crack to top of pillar. Clip 2ed bolt, reach left to a sidepull then up to where crack continues. Top crack out and climb through reachy section on perfect jugs to chains.

Location

Starts in corner just to the right of the “Guanica” chimney but still left of the wall of 7’s and 8’s at lefthand wall.

Protection

2 bolts and gear to fists, chains...
gear beta in comments section below…

Photos

NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
 
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
 
The hope is that the upper of the 2 bolts will keep you off the ledge even if the rock that the red #3/orange #4 cam is placed in were to blow, which is somewhere between possible and likely, however this has not been tested thus the PG13...

You can also rap to the chains from the anchors of "Guanica" if you want to run a TR lap on it...

Be Safe and Enjoy!!! Jan 8, 2014
NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
 
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
 
GEAR BETA...

We used the following gear in this order from bottom to top:
Purple #8 Metolius cam: in starting hand/fist crack.
Black #5 Metolius cam: in same crack just before ledge.
Bolt
Bolt
Orange #3 or Red #4 Metolius cam: in second section of finger/crack, pray the rock holds.
Blue #9 BD nut: in pocket constriction thing above 2ed section of finger crack just after first jugs.
Chains. Jan 8, 2014