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Routes in Left Hand Wall

Feels Like Someone Else T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freelance Tramps (Variation) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Guanica S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limbomaniac T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Party's Over, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pindering to the Masses S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Resume Builder S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Six Bats And A Ringtail Cat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Susey's Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unemployment Line S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard, David Fang & Adrian Reen (1991)
Page Views: 2,801 total, 21/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Feb 20, 2007 with updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Climb left of crack then follow bolts up to the chains. Fun climb.

Location

This is the third route from the left (south) on the left hand wall.

Protection

Limbomaniac is a mixed route, meaning it is intended to be climbed with both traditional gear and quickdraws. While climbing it as a pure sport route is possible there could be serious consequences if the climber falls due to error or poor rock. Either way use caution.

6 or 7 bolts to chains. Belayer should wear helmet as rocks seem to like to fall here.

Photos

William Thiry
Lakewood, CO
  5.8
William Thiry   Lakewood, CO
  5.8
A 5.7 climb with a 5.9 start to a very high 1st bolt. Bring small cams to keep the runouts to a minimum. Devious for a 5.7. The surrounding 5.8s felt easier, althougb the last half of this climb is fun 5.6. Feb 10, 2016
Myk BROWN
tucson, az
  5.7 PG13
Myk BROWN   tucson, az
  5.7 PG13
Fun climb. Haven't been on it for years. Probably not a great climb for a 5.7 or 5.8 climber to jump on the sharp end. The first bolt off the ground to the left is on Pindering to the Masses. Saw a party today using it thinking that is where the climb started, but made the climb a bit harder. If you don't like the runout to the first bolt, you can clip that bolt then come down and do the regular start. Has mussy hooks at anchors. Dec 26, 2011
If anyone thinks it is worth it they are welcome to add some bolts. Dec 3, 2011
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.8+ R
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.8+ R
This is a MIXED route in the guidebook, without gear you're looking at a ground fall runout on easy 5.4 ground between the second and third bolt and a 25-30 foot runout from the last bolt to the chains with some 5.6/5.7 moves. Dec 3, 2011
Derek Anderson
Tucson,AZ
 
Derek Anderson   Tucson,AZ
 
I used cams and I climb 5.10 sport haha so ... it is what it is lil brother Dec 16, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
agree with kirk. might be good for a new leader who wants to place some gear but not stake their life on it. Apr 3, 2008
Bring some gear unless you like run out on holds that will not last the decade, above great ankle breaker ledges. Tiny and finger-sized cams will do. Only 5, maybe 6 bolts. Easy 5.7, wear helmets belayers stand back. Jan 23, 2008