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Routes in Left Hand Wall

Feels Like Someone Else T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freelance Tramps (Variation) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Guanica S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limbomaniac T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Party's Over, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pindering to the Masses S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Resume Builder S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Six Bats And A Ringtail Cat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Susey's Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unemployment Line S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Donette Swain & Todd Swain (2000)
Page Views: 2,477 total, 15/month
Shared By: bw1 on Nov 27, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Description

well, the book says near this area is the route called "the party's over." i don't want to mix up this route with that one, but with the books' vague description i can guess this is an unnamed route. the route is in an obvious corner of lefthand wall west of "unemployment line" and features an open book stemming fest up top. start with 30 feet of 5.6 where gear can be placed (careful of loose rock). then the fun begins. enjoy some solid stemming through five bolts and end at chains.

Protection

6 quickdraws, set of stoppers

Photos

Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
wild to see the names on this FA. A great dihedral, by the way.

I met Todd and Donette at a remote climbing area in Columbia last year. While I was there Many of the younger climbers would gather each night and buy Todd beers until he opened up and told a story or two. Todd and his wife are both great and had nothing but good things to say about Tucson. At this point they have both fully retired and now travel the world and develop climbing areas full time. Apr 20, 2017
Myk BROWN
tucson, az
 
Myk BROWN   tucson, az
 
Fun climb. If you don't have gear and want to do the crack on the bottom, it's easy enough to clip the first 3 bolts on Freelance Tramps and still stay on easy ground. Has Mussy hooks at anchors. Dec 26, 2011
smithb
Flagstaff, Az
  5.8+ PG13
smithb   Flagstaff, Az
  5.8+ PG13
Freelance Tramps is the new variation on the left with 3 additional bolts. May 11, 2011
Adam Block
Tucson, AZ
Adam Block   Tucson, AZ
This is a fun climb that breaks up a lot of the other climbing in the area, I would highly recommend it as something a little different to do while you're at hairpin. Dec 6, 2009
Derek Anderson
Tucson,AZ
 
Derek Anderson   Tucson,AZ
 
classic climb that takes pro before the bolt if your worried about running it out.. friend said it reminded him of some gunks climbs Nov 4, 2009
Good addition to the crag. I would do it again. Feb 20, 2009
David K  
I just scrambled to the first bolt. Sure it's a long runout but if you're leading 5.8+ you shouldn't have a problem. Jan 30, 2009
David Lammers
Grand Junction, CO
 
David Lammers   Grand Junction, CO
 
I climbed the bottom direct (like the description states) with a #2 BD cam and a #1 Metolious tricam. It is a fun climb and this path gave it a good flow. Dec 31, 2008