Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: DCnk, JSt, EFR
Page Views: 1,582 total · 19/month
Shared By: Jimbo on Dec 17, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


57 Opinions

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Description

Well protected sustained climbing at the grade. Fun for the masses

Location

Just left of Limbomaniac.

Protection

Bolts, chains

Photos

NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
  5.7+
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
  5.7+
Went up there yesterday when I had 20 min to spare waiting for my 2ed group of partners to show up. Couldn't get on this or Guanica because there were parties 2 deep on both of them. I have never seen hairpin so busy. Talk about the masses. Cool though. I heard I missed you guys by just a few min. Funny name... I heard people liked both of them. Dec 18, 2011
NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
  5.7+
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
  5.7+
Fun, grade is for the start, backs off a little after 10' but sustained at 7+. I stayed left of the bolts the whole way. Dec 22, 2011
Myk BROWN
tucson, az
 
Myk BROWN   tucson, az
 
Fun climb. Nice addition to the crag. Much less runout than any of the climbs to the right, so it would be a good choice for a newer leader. Has mussy hooks at anchors. Dec 26, 2011
Jimbo
  5.8-
Jimbo  
  5.8-
Thanks for the hooks Myk. U B the man. Dec 31, 2011
I left a locking carabiner on the right of the two anchors as an addition to the mussy-hook on the left anchor to make lower safe and easy for everyone. Please leave it and don't consider it "booty." Oct 31, 2013
Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
Is this route left or right of Limbomaniac? The description say left; the ordering says right. Jan 20, 2014
mikehilbert
Tucson, AZ
 
mikehilbert   Tucson, AZ
 
There's a gear variation to this line about 5 feet to the left of the bolt line up the obvious crack to the fourth bolt. This goes at about 5.7, making this variation of the climb entirely 5.7, as the start of the bolted line is its 5.8 crux. The gear variation takes small to medium cams and a stopper. Dec 6, 2015
Brian Meyer
Tucson, AZ
 
Brian Meyer   Tucson, AZ
 
Enjoyed climbing this today. We examined the locker on the right anchor and noticed the locking mechanism is pretty mangled. However, the gate worked fine. Still chose to rapp off the chains. Mar 12, 2016
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
The screw gate on that locking biner was purposely diabled as people tend to lock them which is unnecessary. This leads to the gate bein stock in the locked postion. Rapping off of chains because a screw on a gate doesn't work or looks mangled seems way more dangerous than lowering off of a Mussy Hook and a biner that has a fully functioning gate. You might want to search dropped gear on this site. Mar 13, 2016
Jason Lonon
Tucson Arizona
Jason Lonon   Tucson Arizona
Climb this yesterday. Decent route....questionable anchor on the left side. Nice views. Sep 24, 2018