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Routes in Leaning Tower

Cosmic Cringe T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Northwest Crack/Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northwest Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Face T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
West Face T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 28 ft, Grade VI
FA: First Lead : Bill Russell 1979
Page Views: 515 total, 7/month
Shared By: Steve Sangdahl on Nov 8, 2011
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

This is a great route....with a bad landing.Rumor has it that Bill Pre-clipped the fixed pin at the start. I was there that day and I am sure he did not,ultimatly who gives a fuk. The direct finish is way fun and pumpy(first led by Rich Bechler 1981)

Location

The north face of Leaning Tower right off the trail and directly above some ugly looking talus.

Protection

Ther use to be a fixed pin after the lunge,then its stoppers and small cams. the start is unprotected or...is it?

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Thanks for the ad Nov 17, 2016
This is Bill Russell's nephew. I attempted cosmic cringe last weekend, but every hold after the lunge had moss in it... I'm going again in a few days and I plan to clean the rout out so it'll be climbable. It's sad that this epic climb hasn't been climbed past the lunge in at least a year. (The few handholds before lunge to had chalk on them) Nov 15, 2016
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
I do remember this being more of a staple in the early nineties as well. Worth the lead. May 30, 2013
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
I couldn't resist the opportunity to give you a hard time.

This route was popular for a couple of years in the early 90s - it often had a TR set up. Nowadays its pretty quiet. Nov 23, 2011
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
 
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
 
oops, didnt notice this was already in data base. reason I posted it was i had just talked to old Swilliam on the phone and it reminded me of this route. I will stick with the latest description as a salute to Russell(1st self proclaimed prez of dlfa...and a damn good one at that) I will also stick with the rating.
Chris tregg can ya remove the other cosmic cringe.peace and f-nes steve s Nov 22, 2011
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
[Reaction to this route being posted twice:] Interesting how 8 1/2 years has added two stars and dropped the rating by a letter! Nov 22, 2011
I recall Scott Stuart saying that he did the first TR of this when he was very young. He'd been climbing every thing his buddies put him on and never falling. They had enough of that and sandbagged him onto this wall that had never been climbed. He did climb it, on TR, with no falls, bottom to top. Turns out that the main reason he wasn't falling was that he was scared our of his wits. Not sure what he took his first fall on.from DL Alum1983. ABQ Apr 13, 2005