Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Mark Tuttle, Paul Loughton (1976)|
|Page Views:||104 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||Bryan G on Nov 1, 2011|
|Admins:||M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThis climb begins in the gully to the left of the obvious golden face in the middle of the South Face of the dome.
P1. Climb a short pitch up a groove/crack past a bolt to a ledge in an alcove.
P2. A long pitch, so watch the rope drag or you might have to break it up into two. Climb up the awkward crack in the groove. As you near an overhang you have to traverse to the right. The second half of the pitch has a lot of different ways to go. Use the various cracks and knobs to work your way up to a bolted belay (with chains) on a nice foot-ledge.
P3. If you don't like scary friction slab, then this pitch is something of a nightmare. From the belay traverse left and then downclimb a bit. Step across the glassy gold polish and onto the better friction stuff and then smear your way up and left to a foothold. From here I think the original climb continued further left onto the ledge and right facing corner. This way is 5.9R and make sure you solo up a ways before placing anything or you will screw your follower.
Instead of finishing on the original route I got lured into the bolted variation that begins from the good foothold in the middle of the traverse. The fucked up thing about this climb is the bolts are in all the wrong spots. From the good foothold I had to make a 5.9 move and then clip the first bolt from a tenuous stance. Clipping the second bolt is the same scenario. I'm not that short either, about 5'8" with a +2" wingspan. Anyways, I escaped left after the second bolt. Getting to the 3rd bolt looked solid 5.10. After that nonsense, climb up some cracks and ledges to a bolted anchor on a ledge.
P4. An easy pitch up a small right facing corner in the middle of the face. The corner protects with small gear and the climbing is easy. Run up the 3rd class slab and belay ontop of the dome.
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