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Poking Papa Bear
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.4 from 9
votes
Routes in e. "South" Face
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Buggery On The High Seas S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Chimney Sweep TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Coronary Bypass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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East Splitter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Easy Wind T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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EZX T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Green Sponge S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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High and Mighty S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Independence Woof S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Iron in The Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jolly Hockey Sticks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mule Train T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mungercling TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Petey the Underdog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Poking Papa Bear T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Second Honeymoon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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South Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Southwest Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 4 Bolt Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Unknown Old School Route S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Whiskey Bill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Jerry and Lynnea Anderson, Csuri Odrey, 2009 |
| Page Views: | 1,788 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Cory B on Jul 11, 2016 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Located at the very beginning of the South Face. In between Ghastly Gulch and the Friction Dandy slab/Looking Glass.
A well protected, fun romp that links a series of ledge systems to the top of the wall. 6 short pitches or 2.5 long pitches. Classic. Go climb it.
Can easily be done in 2-3 pitches with a 70m rope. Combine P1+2 (bring lots of draws). Take the short 3rd class gully. Then combine P4-6, all the remaining pitches to the top of the dome.
Short pitch description:
P1. Short pitch. Locate the line of shiny SS bolts. Difficult friction down low leads to easer terrain above. Belay at a ledge two bolts. 5.10a/b
P.2. Move up into the large flake. Clip bolts, place a large cam, them move up onto the bolt protected face. Another cam placement, then easy face to a large ledge. Only long pitch on the whole climb. 2 bolt belay. 5.9
P3. Head right on the easy crack Go to a large ledge, ignore the bolted belay and move right along the ledge to the base of a corner system. Build gear belay. 3rd class
P4. Move up the corner (small cams) then move right, a reachy move to a jug. Bolt anchor. 5.9
P5. Move left onto a easy face, up to another big ledge. 2 bolt anchor. 5.7
P6. 5.9 move bolt protected, then short 5.7 face to the top. Belay off bolt anchor. High fives all around.
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