Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jerry and Lynnea Anderson, Csuri Odrey, 2009
Page Views: 1,810 total · 19/month
Shared By: Cory B on Jul 11, 2016
Admins: Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Located at the very beginning of the South Face. In between Ghastly Gulch and the Friction Dandy slab/Looking Glass.

A well protected, fun romp that links a series of ledge systems to the top of the wall. 6 short pitches or 2.5 long pitches. Classic. Go climb it.

Can easily be done in 2-3 pitches with a 70m rope. Combine P1+2 (bring lots of draws). Take the short 3rd class gully. Then combine P4-6, all the remaining pitches to the top of the dome.

Short pitch description:

P1. Short pitch. Locate the line of shiny SS bolts. Difficult friction down low leads to easer terrain above. Belay at a ledge two bolts. 5.10a/b

P.2. Move up into the large flake. Clip bolts, place a large cam, them move up onto the bolt protected face. Another cam placement, then easy face to a large ledge. Only long pitch on the whole climb. 2 bolt belay. 5.9

P3. Head right on the easy crack Go to a large ledge, ignore the bolted belay and move right along the ledge to the base of a corner system. Build gear belay. 3rd class

P4. Move up the corner (small cams) then move right, a reachy move to a jug. Bolt anchor. 5.9

P5. Move left onto a easy face, up to another big ledge. 2 bolt anchor. 5.7

P6. 5.9 move bolt protected, then short 5.7 face to the top. Belay off bolt anchor. High fives all around.

Protection Suggest change

10 quick draws, single cams to 3"