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Routes in South Face

Easy Wind T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Jolly Hockey Sticks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mule Train T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poking Papa Bear T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
South Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whiskey Bill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jerry and Lynnea Anderson, Csuri Odrey, 2009
Page Views: 197 total · 11/month
Shared By: C Brooks on Jul 11, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Located at the very beginning of the South Face. In between Ghastly Gulch and the Friction Dandy slab/Looking Glass.
A well protected, fun romp that links a series of ledge systems to the top of the wall.
6 short pitches.
Classic. Go climb it.

P1. Short pitch. Locate the line of shiny SS bolts. Difficult friction down low leads to easer terrain above. Belay at a ledge two bolts. 5.10a/b

P.2. Move up into the large flake. Clip bolts, place a large cam, them move up onto the bolt protected face. Another cam placement, then easy face to a large ledge. Only long pitch on the whole climb. 2 bolt belay. 5.9

P3. Move right short crack system. Go to a large ledge, move right along the ledge to the base of a corner system. Build gear belay. 3rd class

P4. Move up the corner (small cams) then move right, a reachy move to a jug. Bolt anchor. 5.9

P5. Move left onto a easy face, up to another big ledge. 2 bolt anchor. 5.7

P6. Cruxy 5.9 move bolt protected, then short 5.7 face to the top. Belay off bolt anchor. High fives all around.

Protection

10 quick draws, single cams to 3"

Photos

C Brooks
Fresno, CA
 
C Brooks   Fresno, CA
 
Jerry rated it 5.10a/b, I stick to the FA rating. The first pitch has some move that are 5.10a at least, 5.8 is a sandbag. Nov 20, 2016
I usually do the first 2 pitches and rap off, with a 60 meter rope one can make 2 raps to the ground, a set rap anchors for first rap under small roof on climbers left, I found no move harder then 5.8 on this route, but it is a super fun climb! Nov 20, 2016