Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Blaine Neeley, Randy Miller (July 1985)
Page Views: 5,998 total · 57/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Nov 1, 2011
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The South Pillar is the obvious buttress which divides the South Face and the West Face. It offers one of longest climbs on the formation. With lots of easy terrain and good belay ledges, it makes for a fun romp. My brief description only details the path that we took, but many variations exist. Really this climb is best as a "choose your own path" sort of adventure.

P1. Near the toe of the pillar are a couple bolts on steep knobby terrain. We began here. I did a 5.10 boulder problem to get up to the first bolt, but my partner said she traversed in from the right and found that to be much easier. Either way though, the first 10 feet could very well be the crux of the climb. Anyway, climb up past a couple more bolts onto the ridge. Lots of easy scrambling on ledgy terrain leads up the ridge. Take your pick of comfy belay ledges before you hit the end of the rope.

P2. Another pitch of similar terrain will lead to the top of the pillar. Belay among the boulders. You might want to move the belay towards the main wall after you bring your second up.

P3. Start by downclimbing into the notch between the pillar and the rest of the main wall. Then climb up a crack to the right of a 'bulbous' looking feature on the wall. Follow this up and belay on the slab below the overhang near the end.

P4. I traversed to the left of the overhang and finished up a left facing corner, but this required some runout 5.7 moves beneath the roof. Alternatively, climb to the right of the overhang and finish on the steep juggy knobs. Either way you will arrive at a 2 bolt anchor atop the buttress.

The top of the climb is detached from the main dome. Downclimb a short section of easy crack (there's an old buttonhead here) and then scramble over to the top of the dome.

Protection

Most of your pro will either be slung chicken-heads or cracks from 2-4".

Photos