Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Blaine Neeley, Randy Miller (July 1985)
Page Views: 8,513 total · 57/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Nov 1, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

The South Pillar is the obvious buttress which divides the South Face and the West Face. It offers one of longest climbs on the formation. With lots of fun, chicken-head covered terrain and good belay ledges, it makes for a fun romp. 

P1. Route starts 100 feet left or West of Whiskey Bill.  Near the toe of the pillar are two visible bolts on steep, clean knobby terrain. Either do a 5.9+ boulder problem to get up to the first bolt, or traverse in from the right for easier but still steep 5.7+/5.8. Either way though, the first 20 feet is the crux of the climb. Three total bolts lead up and into steep knobby chickenheads and fun climbing to the top of a blocky detached ledge with good pro for a belay.  Natural Belay. 170 feet.

P2. Another pitch of similar terrain will lead to the top of the pillar.  One bolt can be found in a steep smooth "bowl" shaped feature but natural protection is plenty. Belay among the boulders. You might want to move the belay towards the main wall after you bring your second up. Natural belay. 160-180 feet

P3. Start by downclimbing into the notch between the pillar and the rest of the main wall. Approach from climber's left....sneaky but good pro for follower and leader can be found for the exciting "step" across.  Then climb up a beautiful crack to the right of a 'bulbous' looking feature on the wall. Follow this up and belay on the slab below the overhang near the end.  Two Bolt belay. 190 feet.

P4. Climb directly up and right of the belay on outrageous steep juggy 5.5 knobs. Either way you'll arrive at a 2 bolt anchor atop the buttress.  The top of the climb is detached from the main dome. Downclimb a short section of easy crack (there's an old rusty bolt here) and then scramble over to the top of the dome. Approx 100 feet.....then another 80-100 feet of exposed 5th class to un-roping spot.

Protection Suggest change

Most of your pro will either be slung chicken-heads or cracks from 2-4".