Avg: 2.9 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Mike Arechiga and Brad Watson 1997|
|Page Views:||3,190 total, 37/month|
|Shared By:||J. Albers on Nov 1, 2010|
|Admins:||M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionFantastic five pitch face climb up the south face. Climb a mix of chickenheads, friction, and crack for five nice pitches with great belay stances.
Most of the climbing is 5.6 or easier, but there are several short sections of 5.7. There are many sections (including leaving belays) where you need to climb 25-30 feet between gear; however, nearly all of the runout climbing is on positive holds. The 5.7 friction sections are all near a bolt.
Pitch one: Locate and climb up 15 feet to the first bolt. Continue past 4 more bolts to the first anchor. (5.7; 95 feet).
Pitch two: A fantastic pitch up a sea of chickenheads. Climb featured rock up 25 feet to the first bolt; this bolt is located in a big scoop and is impossible to see until you are 15 feet up from the belay (I marked the first bolt on one of the photos posted below). Continue up another 15-20 feet and locate a second bolt. Pull an easy bulge and look up at 55-60 feet of fantastic chickenhead featured rock. Weave your way upwards using slung heads and the occasional nut placement for protection. Finish at a nice ledge with a two bolt anchor. Outstanding rock. (5.6; 100 feet).
Pitch three: Either climb 5 feet up and left off the belay and sling a chickenhead and then proceed back up and right to the first bolt or alternatively, just climb 30 feet directly up and right to the first bolt. Continue wandering upwards keeping your eye open for gear placements, and eventually passing two more bolts. Climb 5.7 friction past the third bolt to a two bolt anchor (two fat Metolius rap hangers) (5.7; 100 feet).
Pitch 4: Step off the belay and climb up to a bolt. Next climb up right to a left facing corner. Climb out onto the face just right of the corner and follow a handcrack (gear) to a stance and a second bolt. Friction up past the second bolt to a two bolt anchor (5.6-7; 100 feet).
Pitch 5: Climb up and left to small right facing flake/corner. Follow the flake upwards to a two bolt anchor 80 feet up. The flake is intermittent and opens up to take small gear every 10-15 feet. Instead of belaying at the two bolt anchor, continue up to the summit and build a gear anchor (5.6; 200 feet).