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Routes in South Face

ESX S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Easy Wind T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Jolly Hockey Sticks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mule Train T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poking Papa Bear T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Second Honeymoon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
South Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whiskey Bill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jim Cunningham and Tom Foll, July 1987
Page Views: 918 total · 12/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Nov 1, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This is an enjoyable climb up the beautiful golden face on the South side of the dome. Start about in the middle of the face, at a section of speckled rock (looks like this ). The crux is getting past the first couple bolts, and I thought it was pretty stout for the 5.7 it's given in the Spencer guide.After the start, lots of 5.0 climbing up the knobs leads to a bolted belay at a nice little dish/ledge.

The second pitch climbs up and right. Some sections of golden polish provide more challenge. Another 2 bolt anchor is below the giant bulbous overhang. I spotted another bolt on the slab above this anchor, so it looks like a route to the top of the dome has been added, although we didn't do it.

There are also a handful of other nice looking face climbs to the right of Mule Train. They are newer and not in the Spencer guidebook.

Rappel the route with 2 ropes to descend. We managed to rap with one 70m by working our way right to a ledge, and then raping to the ground from a bolted anchor on the ledge.


Bolts protect all the hard climbing, but you can reduce the runouts on 5.0 terrain by slinging chickenheads.


C Brooks
Fresno, CA
C Brooks   Fresno, CA
You can climb to the summit of the dome in 2 more pitches by heading up the right slab from the top of the original Mule Train pitches. Pitch 3 is a bolted 5.9. Pitch 4 is a bolted 5. easy with a short crack (#2 and #1 camelot). Worth heading to the summit rather than dealing with the rappels! Dec 9, 2017

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