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Routes in e. South Face

ESX S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Easy Wind T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Jolly Hockey Sticks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mule Train T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poking Papa Bear T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Second Honeymoon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
South Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whiskey Bill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jim Cunningham and Tom Foll, July 1987
Page Views: 962 total · 12/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Nov 1, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Edit]

This is an enjoyable climb up the beautiful golden face on the South side of the dome. Start about in the middle of the face, at a section of speckled rock (looks like this
Rock detail. Photo by Blitzo. ). The crux is getting past the first couple bolts, and I thought it was pretty stout for the 5.7 it's given in the Spencer guide.After the start, lots of 5.0 climbing up the knobs leads to a bolted belay at a nice little dish/ledge.

The second pitch climbs up and right. Some sections of golden polish provide more challenge. Another 2 bolt anchor is below the giant bulbous overhang. I spotted another bolt on the slab above this anchor, so it looks like a route to the top of the dome has been added, although we didn't do it.

There are also a handful of other nice looking face climbs to the right of Mule Train. They are newer and not in the Spencer guidebook.

Rappel the route with 2 ropes to descend. We managed to rap with one 70m by working our way right to a ledge, and then raping to the ground from a bolted anchor on the ledge.

Protection [Edit]

Bolts protect all the hard climbing, but you can reduce the runouts on 5.0 terrain by slinging chickenheads.

Photos

c b
 
c b  
 
You can climb to the summit of the dome in 2 more pitches by heading up the right slab from the top of the original Mule Train pitches. Pitch 3 is a bolted 5.9. Pitch 4 is a bolted 5. easy with a short crack (#2 and #1 camelot). Worth heading to the summit rather than dealing with the rappels! Dec 9, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
If the route is supposed to be 5.7, where's the finish go that isn't the 5.9 extension? A bit confusing. 3 days ago

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