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Routes in Dip Wall

Chickenhead Better Than No Head T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Dipstick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
God Save the Queen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Eggs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grinch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Griptospuridiam T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ham T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Logic and Proportion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Lorax Tree, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
One Fist, Two Fist, Red Fist, Blue Fist T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Crush T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Over the Hedge T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sam I Am T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seuss is Dead T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Star Bellied Sneeches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sylvester McMonkey McBean (aka Snitches) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Theodor Seuss Geisel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whoville T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Kris Hampton 2001
Page Views: 459 total · 6/month
Shared By: Andrew T Jones on Oct 31, 2011
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Partial closure due to historical and archaeological sites. Details

Description

Splitter hand/fist crack behind a tree. Tape up!

Location

Behind a tree, around the corner from "Seuss is Dead"

Protection

Large cams (#5 & #6), rap from a tree at top

Photos

rock-fencer
Columbia, SC
rock-fencer   Columbia, SC
This will take anything from Hands to fists to bigger cams, whatever you want. TR sets up nicely with a 4,5,6. Rap off tree Apr 23, 2012
Nick Zmyewski
Newark, Delaware
  5.10a
Nick Zmyewski   Newark, Delaware
  5.10a
Great crack, lots of hand and fist jams deep in the crack. The tree is good to belay and rappel off of. Bring 3s, 4s, and a 5. Jun 3, 2012
Drake Pregnall
Morehead, KY
Drake Pregnall   Morehead, KY
Any info on P2? Jun 2, 2014
James Willis
Gilbert, Arizona
  5.8
James Willis   Gilbert, Arizona
  5.8
The book lists this route as 9+ but that assumes you climb the second pitch. The first pitch as described here felt more like 5.8 Aug 6, 2016
Stephen Lander
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Stephen Lander   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I agree that the first pitch felt 5.8ish. The second pitch is pure offwidth lurchfest and where the 9+ comes in. Both pitches were high quality.

The first pitch takes C4 2,3,4. The second pitch takes 3s and 4s down low but eventually you'll need a 5 or 6 (which you can bump to the top) Jun 12, 2017
Replaced the webbing on the upper rap anchor, green sling is new, pink rope is old. If your going it be good to replace one of the cords on the rhody at the top of the crack, not a big deal but it could use it, I belayed there. Aug 28, 2017
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
Only did P1 and it felt like a solid 5.9. Maybe I have T-Rex arms or something but diving deep for the solid jams made it tricky working the feet up and got me gassed at the crux. C4s #2-#4, with doubles each very helpful. My last piece was a bomber purple WC hex. Crux seemed to be just before the bulge. You can build a nice anchor above the slung block with a few medium cams. Nov 27, 2017
Nick Tripp  
 
Sweet route, but the very top 15 feet was pretty wet.

"Pitch 2", aka the awesome flaring squeeze/OW, takes C4s #4-6: take a set and bump away. It's sweet.
Or it should have been, had the top 20 feet not been sopping and mossy when I did it in July.

I didn't see a very good spot to build an anchor after "Pitch 1" - lots of loose rock and a dead tree I ripped out with my hands by accident.

Anchor with a small tree at the very very top. 1 day ago

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